Matt O.

After much internal debate, I decided to refinish my K29s in the same style as the black on anodized aluminum Fuchs.

I am doing this first set on a budget. VHT "satin black" paint, and elbow grease for the aluminum to obtain the anodized "look."

If these come out the way I am hoping, my plan is to take my second set of K29s and dip the inners in Eastwood Satin Black with hardener/bake them, then send the outers off for anodization.

Thoughts? I haven't seen much about this on here.

I acquired these when I purchased my Turbo Cup replica. I'm going to put a set on my '88 951 and I will list a set for sale.

Matt

azbanks

Very Nice. Can't wait to see them on the car.

Matt O.

Got the second one painted this afternoon. Next step is to thoroughly clean all other parts of the outer rims.

Anyone know if baking spray-on paint actually helps harden it?

Additionally, anyone know what black was/is originally used on Fuch wheels? I'm sure Harvey Weidman would know, however, last time I called him he was backed up on wheels 6 months so I don't want to bother him.

fwb42

It's my understanding that VHT paint requires heat to cure it. So my answer would be yes, it would harden it.

Max Energy

Matt,
I have refinished numerous set of Kinesis wheels.
The barrels and lips will polish back line new.
In regards to the centers we have Cold Powdercoated, and painted with Automotive Paint(Dupont, BASF, etc) and both will hold up great.
On the centers we would normally either glass bead or media blast prior to finishing.
If you would like I would be happy to send you pictures.

Max
maxenergy@***.net
225 573-0664

Max Energy

Matt,
We have also cleared some of the Lips with Powdercoat.
If you are trying to replicate the orginal Fuch's finish you would probably want to use Scotch bright pads going with the rotation of the wheel and this would provide you with a nice satin aluminum look for the lips.
Max

Matt O.

Thanks!

Matt O.

Max,

Thanks for that feedback. I will try your scotch brite technique. Would you then clear coat them after to protect the metal?

Thanks,
Matt

neunfünfeins

Somewhat, but it will never be as tough as powdercoat or a 2K (catalyzed) urethane.

Most wheel finishers I've talked to will not clear polished lips because it's only a matter of time before they peel.
Now, given that you are going to provide some "tooth" to the surface in the form of the scotch brite treatment, this improves your odds. But eventually the clear will still shrink, yellow, and start to chip/peel.

This also assumes powder or 2K clear. If spray-bomb clear, expect it to last a fraction of the time.

996pp

Hi guys
I know this is an old thread but I also just acquired used Kinesis K19s off of craigslist for my 997tt and had a few questions about refinishing the wheels since Matt and a few of you have hands on experience with wheels. Theyre gunmetal black and I really like the looks of the gunmetal but its chipping in afew places. So im thinking of getting the inners powdercoated gloss black and keep the outers chrome.
Do you guys know the torque specs when I reinstall the inner halfs and also can I leave the tires on the outer barrel and just take the inner halfs off to send to powdercoating or the tires must be off the rim?

Matt O.

IIRC torque specs are 6 ft/pounds. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! You should be able to find that with a google search, please do not quote me on that.

I do not see any issue removing the inner piece from the 3 piece wheel without removing the tire.

996pp

Thanks Matt
I found bits and pieces of info by googleing and a few posters said 16ft/pound. However, I also read that a few people had the centers come apart due to the bolts loosing up and braking, which could get you in a pretty nasty situation very quickly so im starting to think twice before I start braking it into pieces. I also don't want to deal with resealing the barrel and lip, did you do the resealing on yours or can I get away by just taking the centers off?

Wheel Dynamics

If you need some help we can help, cost is around $200 each to have them looking like new again. Here are some samples....

996pp

Thank you
But its one of those things i want to DIY and go to a wheel shop as a last resort.

Matt O.

You can remove the center piece and IF the seal is intact, there is no need to re-do it. However, it's incredibly simple to do, not a hard job. Tons of Youtube videos out there on How To. Keep checking that torque setting... 16 ft/#s seems high. If you torque them down properly, you won't have an issue with them coming apart any more than you would have if a "professional" shop torqued them down. Torque is torque.

Good luck!