Techno Duck

Many wastegate options, Lindsey Racing has tweaked factory ones or you can go aftermarket with one like Tial. This adds some other questions like what are you going to do about boost control..etc. So maybe explore this later on. With new studs on your wastegate and new hardware on the exhaust it will be easy to take out in the future.

How old is the clutch in your car? With the torque tube out, you have essentially completed 90% of the labor...just take the bell housing off and you can replace the clutch.

darenchu

Shifter removal was the first thing I did since it was so easy.

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the transaxle. There is some finned tubing on the right side of the transaxle that has me worried about clearance and getting to some bolts. Will I have to remove this? I'm assuming its the oil cooler loop(?) and I would presumably need to drain the transmission.

Techno Duck, you're right. I'm really over my budget limit on maintenance for this car this year. wastegate upgrade can wait.

I believe the clutch on this car is stage 2 (stronger?) and it seems to be operating pretty good at the moment. It was originally on the car when I bought it 5 years (I think) ago. Is there a way to check clutch wear without removing the bellhousing? I'd prefer to omit this step if at all possible

Last Lemming

How many miles on the clutch ? If you are uncertain or can't or do not know the condition of the clutch you really need to change it at this time. You will kick yourself plenty hard later on if you need to do it after you do this torque tube replacement. Imagine having to go through all this work again to do what essentially right in front of you now. I get that financially it may be a hard thing to do and maybe you can't, but boy oh boy, it sure is a lot of work later on to not do it now. If it makes you feel any better it took me five weeks to do torque tube rebuild and clutch job but now that it's done I'm so glad I did both. Just stick with it, you can do it.

As for the finned pigtail on the tranny, you can get to all the bolts. You may need to get some extensions and get creative with your tool assortment but it can be done. I didn't take off the pigtail because you have to shim it - or something like - that to get it re-installed I didn't want to go through that, but to be sure, it can be done with it on the car.

Techno Duck

If the clutch is operating okay and you have no leaks from the rear main seal, then maybe leave it alone if your budget is stretched thin. Resurfacing the flywheel, clutch kit and a new rear main seal will run around $1k. Then throw in speed and reference sensors due to the potential to break those when removing them.. add on another $150.

Once you drop the transmission once, the 2nd time around will be quick..so if you do ever need to do the clutch it wont be so bad.

Dropping the transmisison is fairly easy, before you do anything, loosen the clamping bolt for the coupler that goes between the torque tube and transmission, then slide that back to disengage the two. Ive read many threads where people have trouble getting the bolt loose or moving the coupler; i think its because many realize they forgot this after they already start splitting the transmission and torque tube.. this causes misalignment of the two making it super hard to get off. Also there is no need to remove the cooler loop to drop the trans. If i remember right, there is a bracket on the bottom that supports the 3 or 4 loops of the cooler that needs to be removed, this bracket mounts between the transmission and torque tube bell housing. Just take care when lowering the transmission you don't crush the loop.

grenadiers

Also, it would be a good time to drop the gas tank. I just replaced the rubber return line in my 1989 turbo car, and it was not that hard w/tank installed. But, there are others on top, like vent lines, you should replace, and of course, the ones from the tank to the pump and beyond.

thingo

Thanks for that tip, I was wondering if I would ever get my torque tube off...

darenchu

I finally had the chance to work on the car today:

-removed drive shaft/transaxle coupling

Now I'm a little confused because in the manual it says to remove the 4 bolts holding the transaxle to the torque tube bellhousing.

-I can't figure out what size (hex?) bolts these are so that I can buy the right socket.

- It seems like I might be missing one bolt..

So my question is:

Can anyone identify the size? And where I might be able to source new bolts?

Pics for reference:
http://imgur.com/j2iKA9c
http://imgur.com/vCfGEbg
All help appreciated! Thanks!

Edit:

I will also want to regrease the connections on the cv joint. Is there a specific type of grease I need? Temp ratings etc?

944crazy

You'll need a 10mm hex socket for the three m12 bolts, and a 19mm wrench for the nut on the bottom right one. The smaller m10 bolt on the bottom left (that's missing on yours) has a 17mm head and nut if I remember correctly. I found it easier to get the top bell housing bolts undone by dropping the box a couple cm after undoing the two bolts that hold the trans carrier to the chassis. For the top left bell housing bolt, I used a 10mm allen key with an extension slipped over the handle. For the other side, I used the 10mm hex socket on a uni joint and long extension down past the oil cooler loop and driveshaft. The bottom right bolt is easy, just don't forget theres another small (m8?) bolt that attaches the oil cooler loop to the bell housing.

If you are going tool shopping, you'll also need an 8mm hex socket for the coupler sleeve bolts.

As for grease, I just used Castrol Spheerol LLM for mine. Not sure if it's available where you are...but it comes in a pot or a grease gun cartidge. If you plan on doing your front ball joints at any time, buy the cartridge as you can use the same grease for the ball joint rebuild.

darenchu

Thanks!!! I'm happy to say that WE DID IT!

I really appreciate all the help guys!

Now that I have everything out, I'm going to take the time to clean and do some light refurbishing on the transaxle and the wastegate before it goes back in.

Next steps:

Change transaxle oil

grease CV joints

Explore wastegate options... Hopefully mine can be saved at a decent price

remove as much rust as possible

seal over rusted area on transaxle with paint (rustoleum?)

put everything back in

darenchu

I ended up going with the TiAL f38 wastegate and am waiting on the adapter plates (USPS lost my package)

Initially I thought the TiAL wastegate would be a direct replacement for the stock wastegate but upon further research this does not seem to be the case. Can someone verify if the following is true, and if i'm missing something?


on a 0.7bar spring TiAL f38:
- vaccuum line that used to go into the top of the stock wastegate must now go to the side port
- TiAL Wastegate can be used as a single port if the top port is vented to atmosphere(?)
- MUST get a boost controller
- MUST bypass cycling valve
- MUST upgrade to a new chip (A-TUNE or M-TUNE?)

Is there any way I can safely install and use this wastegate without all the extras? What kind of problems will I encounter/risk?

rlm328

I would get the Manual Boost Control Valve from Lindsey, this allow you to utilize the waste gate and will be your cheapest option.

darenchu

Do you mean to say I only need the manual boost controller, and I would run it as single port bypassing the cycling valve?

odonnell

I have a LR boost enhancer if you want it for cheap, although I'm not sure if that's the part you're talking about.

7B944

odonnell, If OP passes on LR boost enhancer and it is functional, I may be interested.

SamGrant951

I have a black MBC if you want one of those.