michael7810

I'm flushing the brakes on my 87 951 and want to know if it's necessary to also flush the clutch fluid. The car is used for street use only. If I do bleed the clutch slave cylinder is it possible to do it without removing the starter?
Thanks in advance.

KevinGross

Michael, yes, it should be bled and for the same reason: you want to purge degraded brake fluid, moisture, and debris from the system before it damages seals, corrodes the steel parts, etc. You do not need to remove the starter. With the car on a lift or jack stands, and a positive-pressure bleed tool on the reservoir (eg, Motive), you can open the slave bleed valve with a small 7 mm wrench.

Be sure the reservoir is filled to the brim before attaching the bleed tool. The compartment that feeds the clutch circuit is small, and you want to avoid pushing air into it. Air in the clutch hydraulics can be difficult to purge. Do not use a negative-pressure device like MityVac, and don't try the task with just your foot working the clutch pedal. Good luck!

michael7810

Thanks Kevin, appreciate the advice.

Humboldtgrin

I just had my friend push the clutch pedel down, I opened the bleeder then closed it and he lifted the pedel back up. Repeat several times. Took a few minutes but it worked. Also try to keep the car level or the nose down hill a little for the clutch section of the resivor to fill. Or you can buy some fancy tools that are nice to have for the next time it needs to be done in two years...

931guru

Think outside the box...

Dave951

Awesome video. I'm definitely trying that method next time around.

KevinGross

Nice video. A couple of adds for 944 guys to consider. First, unlike the set-up shown, an issue for the 944 cars is the angle of the master cylinder, which tends to trap air in a "high pocket" and make it a bit tough to push out. If you've got air in the hydraulics, it helps to jack the rear of a 944 to the point the MC is level. It's a bit of height, and I use "truck" jack stands under the torsion bar brackets to safely secure things.

The other thing the video doesn't mention, but many workshop manuals do, is the value of "bench bleeding" the new components. Which simply means pre-filling them as best you can with fluid before installing, minimizing the air you'll have to purge later. Cheers!

michael7810

I bought a Motive pressure bleeder and it worked great. 2 years ago I flushed the brakes but not the clutch so while the fluid coming out of the brakes was tan colored the fluid from the clutch was black. I also discovered the blue hose from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder was leaking so I changed that as well. Thanks again Rennlisters for the help.

gpr8er

IMO this is the way to go. No mess. You need compressed air supply, suck out the reservoirs and fill fresh. Hook up to the bleeder valves suck it out till you see clean and all the old fluid is contained in the unit. Dump the used fluid in your waste container and if you didn't know brake fluid is water soluble so I hose off the tool and set it in the sun to dry and it's all ready for the next use.


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