Diver944

Last week I increased the shims in my wastegate from 3mm to 9mm and after testing it now starts to open at 7psi (0.5bar) and is fully open at 10psi (0.7bar). This is when I apply pressure to the control line.

Today I have finally installed an accurate Autometer boost gauge and it shows I am getting a solid 20psi of boost I have Guru chips and a Reliaboost set at the stock 15 psi level so why am I getting so much boost?

Should I take some shims out or turn down the Reliaboost?

Did I test the WG opening pressure incorrectly? I simply attached a line to the top of the wastegate and noted the PSI when the valve started to open.

The power is amazing but my chips and fuel are mapped for 15psi so I dont want to exceed that.......yet

Perry 951

You need to adjust the Reliaboost to control what pressure to open the wastegate at. Shimming the wastegate will require more pressure to open it at.

rhesus

turn down the boost before u blow something

Jake951

Turn down the Reliaboost. However, you may find, like some of us, that you run out of adjustment range and can't turn it down enough. In that case, you should also bypass the cycling valve: run the line from the Reliaboost directly to the wastegate and not through the cycling valve. With the cycling valve inline, you don't send as much pressure to the wastegate, and therefore can overboost.

Diver944

Don't worry I am not trying to blow anything I spent all day today replacing vac pipes and connecting the boost gauge then went out for one test run, saw it hit 20 psi and came straight back - s.l.o.w.l.y

It's dark here in the UK now so I was just planning tomorrows work. I'd much prefer just to turn down the Reliaboost as that is easy, but I want to do it properly and if people think I have shimmed too much I'll take the wastegate off again (I'm getting quicker every time )

Diver944

Well I've turned the Reliaboost down 4 turns and it started to get a bit loose (as others have said) and the max boost at WOT is now down to 17psi so thats a bit better

Now I'll either take out some shims as originally planned, or maybe bypass the Cycling Valve. I'm a bit concerned about the latter though as I don't want to start making too many changes from stock and my mechanic will only moan and shake his head next time I take it for a tune up

Also, it's too dammned cold to work on cars this time of year

JustinL

Bypass the cycling valve. I'd bet that that is the problem.

Right now you have two devices managing boost on the same line. I run my reliaboost along the fuel rail and it's really easy to see/adjust. My boost is also a rock solid 15 psi and I feel that it is more responsive than the previous set up that used the cycling valve.

Give it a shot, it's a five minute job and you can always go back to your original setup.

Justin

toddk911

Yep, CV just slows boost respones anyway. You should drop 2-4 psi when bypasing it.

Danno

Yep, Justin & Todd's got the right idea. With the CV still in-line, some of the pressure sent by the ReliaBoost to open the wastegate will get diverted back to the turbo-inlet by the CV. This will cause higher-than-desired boost and laggy regulation. If you can datalog manifold-pressure, you'll see that boost ends up been a sine-wave of +/- 1psi or so. With the ReliaBoost hooked directly up to the wastegate, you can trim this range down to about +/- 0.5psi.

Diver944

Thanks guys Luckily it poured with rain here in the UK this afternoon so I didnt take the wastegate off. I shall bypass the CV tomorrow.

I'll search the archives now but I imagine I should pull off the pipe on the WG and block it, and also block the metal tube that leads to the CV. Then run a good quality hose straight down to the WG from the Reliaboost.

Kenny Bradley

What size ID hose do you use to bypass the cycling valve?

Kenny

Asarus

Can someone post pictures of how to hook up the reliaboost directly to the wastegate ?

And what do you do with the stock hard pipe where the reliaboost goes in "normal" circonstances (point 2 on picture) ? Do you close it ?

Diver944

Asarus, I've been searching the archives since my last post and this is what I've learnt:

1. Swivel your banjo through 180 degrees (point 1 on pic)

2. Attach fuel hose with ID of 4-5mm to the Reliaboost (point 3 on pic)

3. Run it along the fuel rail then straight down the back of the block to the WG

4. Attach a 50mm hose to the stock hardpipe (point 2 on pic) and seal it with a bolt and hose clamp

5. Seal the old line that was on your wastegate with another bolt and hose clamp.

That's my plan for daylight tomorow G'night all

Asarus

Thanks, that sounds clear

I you can make some pictures tomorrow while installing, i'd like to see how to connect to the back of the block of the wastegate and how to make point 5

Can i make this in my garage without any special equipment ? (no need to lift the car i mean ?)

JustinL

Here's how I did it.