The secret to head stud removal...
#16
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I'll give you a tip.
I had a few stubborn studs. The double nut didn't work alone.
So what you do is:
1) Double nut.
2) Use a shifter and an extension bar and grip the nut.
3) Get a hammer (steel mallet) and while putting tension to loosen the stud, you hit the top of the stud and it breaks the bind with the thread.
It should come loose.
I had a few stubborn studs. The double nut didn't work alone.
So what you do is:
1) Double nut.
2) Use a shifter and an extension bar and grip the nut.
3) Get a hammer (steel mallet) and while putting tension to loosen the stud, you hit the top of the stud and it breaks the bind with the thread.
It should come loose.
#17
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I'll give you a tip.
I had a few stubborn studs. The double nut didn't work alone.
So what you do is:
1) Double nut.
2) Use a shifter and an extension bar and grip the nut.
3) Get a hammer (steel mallet) and while putting tension to loosen the stud, you hit the top of the stud and it breaks the bind with the thread.
It should come loose.
I had a few stubborn studs. The double nut didn't work alone.
So what you do is:
1) Double nut.
2) Use a shifter and an extension bar and grip the nut.
3) Get a hammer (steel mallet) and while putting tension to loosen the stud, you hit the top of the stud and it breaks the bind with the thread.
It should come loose.
The only thing I'd say is this trick can bend and distort threads. It's the same way you can "ping" a thread to tighten it up. Ive seen that use many times. I wouldn't be afraid to use this method, just conscience of how hard you tap the studs.
#18
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Yeah I've used the "waking the bolts up" trick. It does work well. It would be a good idea to tap all of the studs before trying to turn any of them regardless of how you turn them lol.
The only thing I'd say is this trick can bend and distort threads. It's the same way you can "ping" a thread to tighten it up. Ive seen that use many times. I wouldn't be afraid to use this method, just conscience of how hard you tap the studs.
The only thing I'd say is this trick can bend and distort threads. It's the same way you can "ping" a thread to tighten it up. Ive seen that use many times. I wouldn't be afraid to use this method, just conscience of how hard you tap the studs.
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#19
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A couple of comments:
If a pipe wrench is used to remove the studs, they'll have to be thrown away since all the damage from the tool causes stress risers. You can use one of the damaged studs to make a thread cleaning tool (see below).
Do NOT use any sort of tap to clean the threads. The tap will remove metal and will ruin the stud fit in the block. Make the 'thread cleaner' from an old stud with lateral grooves cut into it with a cut-off wheel. Perhaps someone has a photo that would be helpful.
The reason NOT to use any sort of Loctite is that the stud needs to be torqued immediately after a Loctite stud is installed - read the Loctite detailed instructions. Otherwise the Loctite material dramatically upsets final torque since the threads on the stud will be pulling against the Loctite material instead of its thread-mate in the block.
If a pipe wrench is used to remove the studs, they'll have to be thrown away since all the damage from the tool causes stress risers. You can use one of the damaged studs to make a thread cleaning tool (see below).
Do NOT use any sort of tap to clean the threads. The tap will remove metal and will ruin the stud fit in the block. Make the 'thread cleaner' from an old stud with lateral grooves cut into it with a cut-off wheel. Perhaps someone has a photo that would be helpful.
The reason NOT to use any sort of Loctite is that the stud needs to be torqued immediately after a Loctite stud is installed - read the Loctite detailed instructions. Otherwise the Loctite material dramatically upsets final torque since the threads on the stud will be pulling against the Loctite material instead of its thread-mate in the block.
#20
Burning Brakes
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A couple of comments:
Do NOT use any sort of tap to clean the threads. The tap will remove metal and will ruin the stud fit in the block. Make the 'thread cleaner' from an old stud with lateral grooves cut into it with a cut-off wheel. Perhaps someone has a photo that would be helpful.
Do NOT use any sort of tap to clean the threads. The tap will remove metal and will ruin the stud fit in the block. Make the 'thread cleaner' from an old stud with lateral grooves cut into it with a cut-off wheel. Perhaps someone has a photo that would be helpful.
#22
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I agree with Michael Mount's comments. Dare, good on that tool, I had not seen it before, looks really nice in that it doesn't mash the threads. Yep, don't use a thread-cutting die, get this set, best deal Snap-on has: Metric-Tap-and-Die-Sets-15pc-Metric-Tap-and-Die-Set-Blue-Point
I don't understand the logic of using a penetrant (PB Blast, eg) on a fastener installed with a thread locker. It ain't going to get past the adhesive. My own experience is that where heat can be used, it trumps penetrant every time. A cylinder of MAP gas with a plumber's torch just makes life easy. Cheers.
I don't understand the logic of using a penetrant (PB Blast, eg) on a fastener installed with a thread locker. It ain't going to get past the adhesive. My own experience is that where heat can be used, it trumps penetrant every time. A cylinder of MAP gas with a plumber's torch just makes life easy. Cheers.