Tom M'Guinn

Ah, so the starter cranks the motor with the remote switch? If so, either the ignition switch or wiring to/from it to the S terminal is not good. I'll look at the schematic and see if there's a convenient way to hot wire it. You'll get there...

Tom M'Guinn

And you've bypassed all alarms right?

spencang

yes and yes, I have bypassed the alarm.

Tom M'Guinn

Not sure if this will help much, but there is a 2-pin connector right above the brake booster with a red/black wire and a blue wire. The S terminal on the starter gets 12v from that red/black wire, which in turn gets 12v from the ignition switch. If you disconnect that connector and turn the ignition switch all the way, you should get 12 volts on the switch side of that connector. If you don't, then the ignition switch itself could be bad (though it's still conceivable that the red/black wire from the switch to that connector is bad, or that the switch itself isn't getting power). If it does get 12v, yet the 12v doesn't make it's way to the S terminal on the starter, then the red/black wire from that connector to the starter must have a break somewhere.

spencang

I unplugged that connection and put the voltmeter on the ignition side and it read 4.97v. When the ignition was turned it went to 0. Not sure what that means

Tom M'Guinn

And if you put 12v to the red/black pin on other side of that connector, does the starter engage and spin? If so, the ignition switch would seem the next logical thing to test. I can't explain the 4.97v reading -- and would think that would kill your battery fast if that's there with the key off. Maybe some random voltage divider happening in or around the switch that just happens to bleed out 5v? At any rate, probably time to check the switch directly.

spencang

Finally found something wrong! That makes me feel so much better. Its been hard when everything has been checking out fine and still no start.

I will take the steering wheel off and checking the switch directly using Clarks-garage.

Thanks

spencang

tomorrow, that is

spencang

So I took everything apart and connected my multimeter to the #30 and #50 pins on the ignition switch per clarks garage. With the key in the ignition, the resistance was all over the place, reading as much as 128 and as low as the single digits. I turned the ignition on like starting the car and it went to the blank 1, as if it was not connected to anything.

Confirmed bad switch? or did I not have it on the right pins?

spencang

Found the issue! I had corrosion inside the positive battery cable. The cable has been replaced and everything is good again!