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Which Clutch?

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Old 11-04-2003, 11:15 AM
  #16  
mslovak1
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The first mechanic went by the book hours for the Turbo, I think 20 hours.
He was a terrible mechanic, took 2 weeks to do it, and his shop was a mess. Should have known better!
Second guy had it apart after lunch, I guess experience and know how.

Don't forget about greater holding pressure plates when doing the clutch disk. The lighter weight of the aluminum pressure plate and lightened flywheel allowes quicker response also.
Old 11-04-2003, 01:06 PM
  #17  
rage2
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The most important is the pressure plate. I destroyed a cup clutch in 500miles using stock pressure plate .

Now I use a cup clutch, with the Huntley Racing pressure plate. Works awesome, ZERO slip, even at 450whp.
Old 11-04-2003, 07:42 PM
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Bill
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Interesting. Just goes to show how different ones experiences can be.

I have 15,000 miles on my Centerforce clutch/pressure plate and it has functioned flawlessly. The pedal effort is slightly LESS than the stock turbo clutch. I appriciate this very much. In Northern California, I spend too much time in rush hour traffic. Remember, the stonger the pressure plate, the greater workout your left leg will get (ever hear the old addage about the waitress that always carries the coffee pot in the same hand, will wind up with one larger.......).

I had a machine shop lighten the flywheel 8lbs and balance the whole assembly together. I R&R'd the clutch myself, and was cautious to install the assembly (bolts incl) in the same maner that the machine shop balanced the setup. Also install the drive shaft in the same manor that it is removed, as it too can cause balance issues. I could not be happier with the Centerforce setup.

I do not have the horsepower that Rage has though. Mine dynos at 367 rwhp.

Be careful with lightening the flywheel though. In order to improve gas mileage on our cars, Porsche has the motronics shut off the injectors when the throttle is snapped closed. The recipricating mass of the flywheel and crankshaft is what makes a smooth transition from the shut down injectors, back to idle. I have heard of engines that will stall from too much weight being removed from the crank/flywheel. This is also the reason for the rubber center clutch, it absorbs some of the shock from the off/on condition. I see proof of this when I am off throttle in first creeping in traffic. My car will start to jerk. Again a factor of not having the rubber center.

I guess you could overcome this with stand alone that no longer shuts off the injectors.

My next step......Danno?


Last edited by Bill; 11-04-2003 at 08:22 PM.
Old 11-04-2003, 10:31 PM
  #19  
ewainwright
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Where is the guy located that will do a clutch job for $500.00. I really don't need one but for that price I'am there
Old 11-05-2003, 12:03 AM
  #20  
RajDatta
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Todd, no you cannot use a 968 clutch on a 951. First off, it does not have any springs, the system uses the dual mass flywheel to compensate for any chatter/rattle. Next, the size is different and from what I have been told, it will not fit. If you compare 968 and 951 housings side by side, you will see how much bigger a 968 housing is. It has a nice feature (window) that allows you to swap clutches without actually removing the housing, a pretty neat setup but the setup had its biggest flaw in its dual mass flywheel that is known to fail and will fail eventually on most cars. It is also very expensive.



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