Paulyy

Didn't take long! Good luck mate!

I'm with Patrick on the keeping the stock internals. Get some new piston rings, bearings ect. and 350hp is easily achievable with the stock stuff. So is 400. just keep the rpm under 6500.

Before you go VEMS. consider the Wolf+J&S that's for sale. Huge support in aus for that unit. (aussy made. just like the rest of them) & the J&S is basically based on the KLR with added features.

What ever you do, do your fuel system also. Lines & fuel pump. You're going to run out of pump quick.

944crazy

Cheers Pauly. Yeah, I think I will save some cash and keep the stock internals...unless I have the cast rods, then I think it would make sense to upgrade.

I normally shift at 6000 anyway, because the little k26/6 runs out of puff up there, and I don't want to risk foaming up the oil. After the rebuild, and with a better turbo I think I'll be taking her to 6.5k more often though.

I was looking at Alex's wolf, and it's quite good value seeing as it comes with injectors and o2 sensor. If I have money left over after the rebuild I'll definitely be considering it, if he still has it for sale then. Like I was telling you before, e85 is on the cards and that will require some nice big injectors like he is selling. I also will upgrade the fuel pump...maybe a bosch 044 or something. My bro has one in his car and seems to be a good pump. Future Timm can worry about that though, for now I will just concentrate on doing the rebuild right.

Paulyy

I'll just add some notes for you, might save you from some searching.

I used Lindsey Racing piston rings. You'll need to gap them yourself (you'll need to ask them for tolerances i forgot them) - good if you have to go oversize or hone ect.
Porsche rings come gapped to spec. no need to gap them.
Goetze piston rings are also drop in rings. people have said good things about them.

Bearings are all Glyco. OEM are Glyco just with the oem part number and cost more.

LR rebuild kit is a great kit. I used it and had everything i need.
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/ERK944TURBO.html

The steam vent kit - You can either buy theirs, or do it yourself. I used AN fittings. looked nicer and easier when i had to remove the head.

Can't remember if you had changed your clutch, but really now is the time to do so. Trust me, you dont want to be doing a clutch job a few months down the track. (gearbox, exhaust, torque tube, shifter and linkages, intake manifold, crossover, bell housing + more need to come off. Seriously F*** That)

because you ditched your aircon, pretty sure you can move the alternator to the aircon spot. makes more room.

Also wont hurt for some head work if you have the coin, you will yield in some gains. Head work as in a simple intake porting.

dont forget to clean all the ground straps and grounding points.
What ever EMS you use, if it needs a new loom, install it before the engine goes in.

If the wolf gets sold, Eric will probably sell his after it. might be a little more though, he's spent more on his system.

If you have the stock bypass valve, Recommended to get a new aluminium one. Any quality brand, as long as it works.

And Wastegate if you haven't done so. That's something you really need to do especially upgrading turbo.

(i cannot remember all your existing mods)

JET951

Hi Timm , some short notes on Porsche engines that I have learned over the last 39 - 40 years working on Porsche cars & in this case the 951 engine }

Standard fit 951 Forged conrods that are now 30 years old and not just 30 years old sitting in a box in instead have been used in an engine over 30 years & will be going back into an engine with the hope & expectations of an increase of HP / KW from the standard LOW out put the engine had 30 years ago & I am talking about metal fatigue & often slight ovality of the con-rod journal = not a good start in reliability on an engine that has expectations of higher output

Do we or have we seen old 951 con-rods fail from metal fatigue in OLD age = YES , not common but will become more common as these get older & older and used in a higher than standard out put 951 engine

There are only 4 of them , not 8 or 12 , which means ( less expense ) & high quality after market con-rods are a very good starting point in making a reliable higher than normal out put 951 engine

-------------

2nd point I want to mention is the honing of the Alusil cylinders , there will be no benefit at all by " honing "of the cylinders in the situation of just installing new rings only

Honing or some people like using the word "lapping " is simply by nature the removal of cylinder metal & the process of getting the silicon particles ( within the alloy ) to protrude on the cylinder surface ( which they already are )

The more you hone , the more you are increasing the cylinder to piston clearance beyond the Porsche 951 engine spec

The alusil engines , be it 944 , 951 , 944 & S2 , 968 , 928 etc etc are not to be confused with the old 1950's , 1960's , 1970's conventional cast iron engine blocks on the standard cars of that era & a light conventional hone was the standard fare in re ringing a last century cast iron engine block ( Chev , Ford , Toyota , Datsun even the Porsche 924 etc etc ) , but in that process ( honing ) you were removing metal from the cylinder & increasing the cylinder to piston clearance( slightly ) and if you went a bit overboard in the honing it was not uncommon to get piston slap noise when the engine was cold , because honing is just a slower form of boring a hole , but honing ( finishing ) was to get the cross hatch finish , but this requires the removal of metal

So in the case of a 944 , 944S /S2 , 968 , 928 etc etc or even a 911 3.0 or 3.2 , 3.3 , 964 , 993 air cooled engines that are either Alusil or Nikasil , one can re ring the old pistons , if the cylinder / piston wear is minimal , but you NEVER ever hone / Lap the alloy cylinders

Now its not uncommon to see ( on dismantle of a 30 year old engine ) some cylinder scratches & its nearly always one cylinder in in an engine that has more scratches than one would like

Now in this case you say , gee I do not like this & one then realises that the scratches / marks in the cylinder/s wall/s are at least half a mill deep or more , this will not hone out and lets say the worst scratch is half a mm deep ( very common ) then the cylinder has to be machined by 1 mm in total dia to get that out or more in many cases , that way way too much clearance = new oversize pistons needed etc

So to recap } we / I have never ever honed / lapped the cylinders if we are just re ringing , 39 - 40 years experience means something & this info I am giving you is free & in my time

Regards
Bruce Buchanan
Buchanan Automotive

333pg333

^^ There you go Timm. ^^

944crazy

Awesome, thank you for taking the time to give me that advice Bruce, I really appreciate it. If the bores aren't scratched, then I definitely will not be getting any lapping done. That's good anyway as it saves a little bit of money, and reduces the chance of having the machinist mess something up. The block will just need a good clean and facing for the cometic hg then.

I'm also still heavily considering getting those cheaper forged billet rods from ppm or molnar. I can fit them into my budget, and at my power goals and stock rev limit, they should be fine, and even if they aren't much stronger than the stock rods, at least they will be lighter, and not have 30 yrs worth of fatigue on them...and they also won't need any machining. I would love to splurge on a nice set of carrillos or the like, but then why not upgrade the pistons while I'm at it...etc...and then I'm already into the rabbit hole of throwing out all my savings.

Also, thanks Pauly for the extra tips. I have been busy checking out all the different vendors and have gotten a good list of all the parts I need at the best prices. I'm just gonna wait till after I have the block and head back from machining to order everything though...just in case things don't turn out ideally and I need oversize pistons or bearings or any other extra stuff. My clutch looks to have a fair bit of meat on it still, I think it has been replaced within the last couple of years by the po. I'm thinking of getting the two piece cross over mod done though, because the clutch will inevitably be changed at some point later on down the track. Dropping the gearbox is no big deal, we had that thing out and in pretty quickly. Not sure if I want to trust my machinist with head work...from what I've read its a tricky thing to do well on the 944, and I don't want to pay extra for a job that isn't done right by someone who knows the 944 head inside out.

333pg333

I agree about changing the rods. I just thought you might be on a super tight budget.

Paulyy

Wossner are good also

http://www.forgedpistonparts.com/944...-968-cup-s2-s/

http://www.forgedpistonparts.com/por...rbo-all-years/

944crazy

Cheers, I think I'll go for Wossners if for some reason I need new pistons.

944crazy

Started to tear down the engine over the weekend and made some progress. Here are some pics of the bores. They seem to look ok so far...I can't see any serious scratches as yet. Bruce, Patrick what do you think?

I don't want to remove the pistons just yet as I don't want to scratch the bores with all the carbon that has fallen in. What's the best way to clean all the crap out before I can slide the pistons out? I was thinking of just turning it upside down and spraying it with fuel in a squirty bottle. Are any types of degreaser or throttle body cleaner safe for these bores? I saw some threads of people ruining their bores with various cleaning agents so I am worried about spraying anything in there.

944crazy

And here's a pic of my crusty old head.

944crazy

Alright, I just cleaned out the bores a bit with fuel to take some better photos, and it doesn't look good. Cylinder's 1 and 2 have scratches in them deep enough to feel with my fingernail.





Also, it looks as though there is a faint cross hatch pattern in the bores...that shouldn't be there right? Unless it was incorrectly honed at some point in it's life?

Paulyy

Those cross hatches look weird?
Those scratches are fine. Yours look quite good actually.

944crazy

Yeah they are a bit weird...too spaced apart for it too be a normal hone like one would do on an iron block...plus it wasn't lacking in power. Maybe a little particle was caught in the pads during a sunnen hone/lapping that it's had a long time ago? I'm unsure...I thought it was an unopened engine, but maybe not.

Cool, I'm hoping you are right and those scratches are nothing to worry about. They are only in the top 2cm of the bore anyway.

Also, should I even bother trying to double nut the studs to remove them? Or just go and by a stud removal tool straight away.

odonnell

I got one head stud out by double nutting. The next one caused the nuts to both strip on the stud...that sucker was in there good. I was able to hammer an Irwin extractor over the stud and remove it. After that I decided to just leave the rest.