ewainwright

Hi Guys.

I am glade that you've gotten your stuff. The J- pipe, if it is anything like mine, will have to go under a knife to make it work.

The stumble off idle will not go away but you can minimize it. First go behind you glove box and against the firewall you'll find a golden roll object with a line going to it with two wires in it (altitude senor). Attach a 1.8k resistor across the plug.

Then pull out your laptop and at idle focus on getting your air/fuel mixture (using the Master AFM Adjustment) to 14.7 at idle and in zones 200-300. After that I am using an airflow ratio of 13 until the onst of boost. Track everything that you do on a zone sheet. Good Luck ed

Edit: Once dialed in I removed the resistor and Baby runs 100% better

sybelix

ok, sounds interesting;
we have a couple of other issues too with my car;
when the engine is warm, and it is parked for a while, it doesn't want to start too easily...
But when cold, no problem..
speed sensor?
and it idles sometimes at 700 rpm, sometimes 1250 rpm..
throttle position sensor?

JustinL

There is a way to adjust the span of the TPS with the tuning module. I'd give this a try and see if it helps out with the starting. The directions are somewhere in the manual. I also found leaning out the idle zones seemed to help as well.

Justin

ewainwright

Hi,

Hopefully you have the dataloging capability. I first would want you to rule out that your air/fuel isn't too rich. Initially, the MAP did cause a hard starting problem with my car as well (stalling too at low rpm with a hard start up immediately following)

If you didn't have these problem before my gut feeling is that the system isn't dialed in properly. Making your car run well WOT is easy. The hell is to to get it to idle, run smoothly (at low RPM) and to accelerate smoothly at part throttle.

Trust me, I went through hell. Zero out everything. Start with Master AFM. Use the 1.8k and dial in your air/fuel idle ratio to 14.7. I feel that what is happening is your car is going from a rich zone to a lean zone which is causing your idling issues (more than likely the 205-305 zones). Once you've dialed in your idle (with the help of the laptop) then go for a short ride with a passenger and note the overal zones that are lean with your link and dial up or down the large zones. Then pill out the laptop and go for the individual cells. Trust me.

sybelix

But I did have this starting problem before MAP..

B951S

I find that zone 405 has a significant affect on hot restart. If your idle cell (305 usually), say is set either a few clicks +ve or -ve and your 405 zone is set far from it the car will hunt and then die as it goes through these zones on a hot restart. I found that a sightly leaner zone 405 helped cure my hot start problem. If you actually study where zones the map goes through at start up, ot will be somthing like:

600 (engine not turning)>>>>>500>>>505(cranking)>>>>>405>>>>(fires)>>>>>310 (starts)>>>>>305>>>>(idling)

I would make sure that these zones all 'flow' nicely. If you start to log without starting the car, and then fire it up you will see the zones it goes through. Also, the 200 rows (especially 210 to 250) are critical to good throttle tip in and low speed drivability. If you look at OZ951's website you will find his zone table, mine is similar in trend but the absolute values are different. My only issue now really is a more pronounced bucking when coming off the throttle but otherwise she starts and drives real good. The fine tuning capability of the MAP system is very, very good.

sybelix

how long did it take you to set things straight?
did you drive and stop & tune, drive and stop & tune..?

cause we are planning to do the "fine tuning" tomorrow..

pete95zhn

Hey,visit then my garage,I'll be changing disks,pads,motor mounts & caster blocks...and doing some preparative work for MAP installation.

reno928s

I purchased the tuning module from Guru, will that be sufficent for tuning my MAP system once it arrives? or will I have to get something else. I probably could borrow a lap top otherwise I'm gonna look a little weird driving down my street with a home computer on my side. Thanks in advance, Reno

951Porschiste

Regarding the issue of difficult starting when warm: Then it's some other unrelated issue. My guess is vapor lock. Verify your fuel pump or fuel pump check valve.

B951S

Best way to tune drivability is drive the car, monitor the o2 air/fuel gauge and make changes by making a note of which zones need tweeking and if you can maintain the car in that zone, edit in real time or move up to the 'edit' page and manually call up the zones. After about a week of driving, I could instinctivlely make a mental note of which zone was out and just tap it up or down inthe 'edit' page while driving or at lights, for example, cruising at 2600rpm under light load will get you load rage 300 or 400, therefore the zone would be 325 or 425 etc..

Anyway, it does not take too long. My car runs best slightly rich at idle and part throttle. High load zones 800-900 are best analyzed with a data log but don't be temped to lean them out too much based on just narrow band o2 data values. Feel free to drive it hard but make sure that the air/fuel show more rich than you know it needs to be, back of a couple % at a time. I keep mine in the high 80's on the data log.

Glad to report my car runs well, rips through the revs with 18psi and the MAP pushing through the 900 row..........

sybelix

ok B951S
we will start tuning my car this week, first I'll have to replace my TPS,
and speed sensor, they've gone bad

Will keep you posted with some pics..