Lindsey??? Exhaust???
10-05-2003, 07:56 PM
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Lindsey??? Exhaust???
Anyone have the phone number for Lindsey Racing? Their website seems to be down.
Well I need a new exhaust...after 145k, the stock one is starting to fall apart. I want to go full 3" all the way with no cat or muffler...okay maybe a muffler (it's my daily driver). I just want as LITTLE RESTRICTION AS POSSIBLE. What are my best low cost options? I'm not looking for show...just low restriction, I don't care how loud it is...
Well I need a new exhaust...after 145k, the stock one is starting to fall apart. I want to go full 3" all the way with no cat or muffler...okay maybe a muffler (it's my daily driver). I just want as LITTLE RESTRICTION AS POSSIBLE. What are my best low cost options? I'm not looking for show...just low restriction, I don't care how loud it is...
10-05-2003, 08:20 PM
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If you want low restriction, you should go to fabspeed.com and check out their video "tennis ball test". Haven't bought mine yet, I've seen the pipes in real life. Stunning quality, no visible welding seams.
10-05-2003, 11:39 PM
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I'm pretty sure anything LR sells will be stainless steel = not low cost. My full 3" SFR setup was like $1300. Its light, great build quality and sound, but expensive.
If you want cheap, have the guys at United Muffler in Radford make something up for you. They will build anything if you pay in cash!
If you want cheap, have the guys at United Muffler in Radford make something up for you. They will build anything if you pay in cash!
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10-06-2003, 08:00 AM
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Originally posted by AKS986
im prety sure that LR has a low cost exhaust...
im prety sure that LR has a low cost exhaust...
BTW, I'm not a shill for LR, just a satisfied customer... Dave delivers great service.
10-06-2003, 09:50 AM
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yeah that was the LR exhaust I was going to look into...it would be around $600....what is a bigger restriction, muffler or cat? Has anyone had luck with hollowing out a cat? Where I live you don't need to get emissions tested at all, but they do look under the car to see that you do have a cat (or sime bulge halfway down the exhaust anyways 
). What should I do?
). What should I do?
10-13-2003, 12:12 AM
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My cat died a horrible death. Had a broom stick rammed through it until it was broken into tiny little pieces. Would have killed it like that except it had started to go down hill and was a 90% blockage. As you might imagine the performance gain was tremendous, but probably not much if any better than when the cat was healthy. If you decide to get rid of your cat the same way make certain that you do it outside and wear a respirator.
Now that it is gone, I haven't missed it a bit, and I even passed a sniffer test.
Now that it is gone, I haven't missed it a bit, and I even passed a sniffer test.
10-13-2003, 12:33 AM
#13
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I've got a 3" cat back setup made out of pieces of mandrel bends (like any other high dollar exhaust system) but the welds are not Tig, and they aren't the prettiest.
It's also equipped with a 3" in/out Borla XR1 muffler.
While not pretty, it will work very well.
If you want it, $200 + shipping/packing actual costs to your door.
PS... the Borla XR1 costs $150 alone new!
It's also equipped with a 3" in/out Borla XR1 muffler.
While not pretty, it will work very well.
If you want it, $200 + shipping/packing actual costs to your door.
PS... the Borla XR1 costs $150 alone new!
10-13-2003, 07:22 AM
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im also considering a lindsey exhaust system,but the 1 kit is $460 but no wastegate tie in,if you want the same kit plus a wastegate tie in its gonna cost you $100 more??!just for a little piece of pipe?but i think my piping before the cat has colapse because im getting strong exhaust smells and rich conditions
10-13-2003, 11:36 AM
#15
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The Lindsey low cost system is made from aluminized carbon steel. If you don't drive it in the rust belt in the Winter it should do fine. You could probably expect to get 5 years out of it if you keep it out of the salt. How much salt do you drive through in a typical VA Winter in your area?
Short drives where you don't get the system up to temperature will also shorten the life.
For a track car The aluminized carbon would be fine. Keep in mind that the aluminum will alloy into the carbon base metal starting at about 850F. That will result in a pipe that looks grayish in color. Not a problem as the iron/aluminum alloy is very stable. Any MIG welds should be painted with an aluminum paint. The areas adjacent to the welds will be the first area to go from a corrosion point of view.
DON'T use any type of stainless hangers or hardware on an aluminized carbon system. The stainless part will be fine but the aluminized carbon component will fail in that area.
Alan C.
Short drives where you don't get the system up to temperature will also shorten the life.
For a track car The aluminized carbon would be fine. Keep in mind that the aluminum will alloy into the carbon base metal starting at about 850F. That will result in a pipe that looks grayish in color. Not a problem as the iron/aluminum alloy is very stable. Any MIG welds should be painted with an aluminum paint. The areas adjacent to the welds will be the first area to go from a corrosion point of view.
DON'T use any type of stainless hangers or hardware on an aluminized carbon system. The stainless part will be fine but the aluminized carbon component will fail in that area.
Alan C.