Electronic Boost Controllers - Plex Pro
#16
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If you have ever had the chance to drive a 400+ whp 951 with TPS based boost versus what you are suggesting, you would be AMAZED at the increase in drive-ability that is available.
If some are a fan of the "on / off" power delivery that comes with prioritizing hitting the boost target as fast as possible (ie - hitting full boost target at 50% throttle input) then disregard the benefit of TPS based boost.
The beauty of TPS boost control is that it transforms the power delivery to mimic what you would get from an N/A engine. This makes the car very predictable and manageable.
If some are a fan of the "on / off" power delivery that comes with prioritizing hitting the boost target as fast as possible (ie - hitting full boost target at 50% throttle input) then disregard the benefit of TPS based boost.
The beauty of TPS boost control is that it transforms the power delivery to mimic what you would get from an N/A engine. This makes the car very predictable and manageable.
At the moment im on Georges page with wanting full boost asap. I'm about 370-400rwhp. My turbo takes a bit to kick in so having full capability of having the gate closed as much as possible before 4k rpm.
I have changed from the .82 to the .63 housing recently but yet to give it a proper test drive as still on the hoist.
I know where you're coming from though. i do understand it how the TPS boost control works.
#17
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There is no sacrifice in obtaining full boost as fast as possible - you have the flexibility of programming when you want the full WG duty cycle, so if you want it at 50% throttle position, its not a problem.
Want full boost between 70% to 100% - easy. This capability takes a "default" power delivery that mimics a 2 stroke engine to a smooth, when wanted or full out beast when needed format.
It's tough to appreciate with words. The driving experience speaks for itself.
Want full boost between 70% to 100% - easy. This capability takes a "default" power delivery that mimics a 2 stroke engine to a smooth, when wanted or full out beast when needed format.
It's tough to appreciate with words. The driving experience speaks for itself.
#18
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You could also do gear and TPS based boost too. Even betterer. :-)
#20
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Just need to find a good way to get the boost by gear switching possible so the computer/boost controller knows what gear you're in.
the eBoost2 has 6 boost set points to control with 2 input wires (or the buttons on the gauge)
Sequential switching A:
Earth the green wire to increase the set point by 1. Earth it again to go up another (up to 6)
Earth the orange wire to reset to SP1
Sequential switching B: (what i use)
Earth the green wire will increase the set point by 1. Earth it again and it'll go up another. Earth the orange wire to bring it down a set point.
Theres many other settings. You can program it if you use flat foot shifting to spike boost and all sorts of things.
But for the boost by gear, unless you have a sequential shifter (to us all 6 set points), you can only have 4 set points by using different configurations of the 2 wires from the eBoost2.
SP1 - Green not connected / Orange not connected
SP2 - Green earthed / Orange not connected
SP3 - Green not connected / Orange earthed
SP4 - Green earthed / Orange earthed
Not much of a big deal only having 4 set points as you'd only use 1st, 2nd 3rd gear for different values. 4th 5th and 6th(if you have it) would be the same.
the eBoost2 has 6 boost set points to control with 2 input wires (or the buttons on the gauge)
Sequential switching A:
Earth the green wire to increase the set point by 1. Earth it again to go up another (up to 6)
Earth the orange wire to reset to SP1
Sequential switching B: (what i use)
Earth the green wire will increase the set point by 1. Earth it again and it'll go up another. Earth the orange wire to bring it down a set point.
Theres many other settings. You can program it if you use flat foot shifting to spike boost and all sorts of things.
But for the boost by gear, unless you have a sequential shifter (to us all 6 set points), you can only have 4 set points by using different configurations of the 2 wires from the eBoost2.
SP1 - Green not connected / Orange not connected
SP2 - Green earthed / Orange not connected
SP3 - Green not connected / Orange earthed
SP4 - Green earthed / Orange earthed
Not much of a big deal only having 4 set points as you'd only use 1st, 2nd 3rd gear for different values. 4th 5th and 6th(if you have it) would be the same.
#21
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I have the PLX Wideband and now only use the module's 5V output as the DM-6 gauge module died within 6 months. I also bought the DM-100 on Amazon for $40, but it too was a POS. PLX customer service is terrible. Neat idea, horrible implementation. If you haven't invested any money in their stuff yet, I would look elsewhere.
#22
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I have the PLX Wideband and now only use the module's 5V output as the DM-6 gauge module died within 6 months. I also bought the DM-100 on Amazon for $40, but it too was a POS. PLX customer service is terrible. Neat idea, horrible implementation. If you haven't invested any money in their stuff yet, I would look elsewhere.
#23
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#24
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Thanks for the input. Met with my tuner, Mario, yesterday. Went over options -"Mario's one to prefer uncluttered clean wiring - less redundancy IS always better." I shared, "Could we simply use a hand held windows based computer with a pin adaptor loom into the glove box that can easily be plugged into EMS?" Answer: "Yeah - **** - great idea!" So, we're only using Electromotive with a switch for spring, 16psi, 20psi, and 23psi after tuning. Engine is currently running too rich "on purpose" in the mid and above ranges while on boost for safety reasons. With the meth injection, we'll advance timing and reduce fueling in the areas that we've added fuel/timing in case of 91 pump fuel not up to spec. The EMS has about a 25% correction ability towards timing, fuel, knock sensor signal, etc. from whatever base tune is set for each boost level. The switch will communicate with the EMS based on the position. The meth injection "should" provide ample octane requirements in case of a bad tank of pump 91. There's a float level in the tank with a signal sent to the EMS, along with nozzle flow, etc. This will show on the handheld when plugged into the EMS, and if there's no meth flow, knock, etc. the EMS will automatically go to the 8psi base WG spring boost level.
I'll have a good working Greddy boost controller with the solenoid, lines, wiring etc. for a fair price soon.
Thanks for all the input, helped me realize using the current EMS, new 3 way solenoid, and expert tuning is the right direction moving forward.
G
I'll have a good working Greddy boost controller with the solenoid, lines, wiring etc. for a fair price soon.
Thanks for all the input, helped me realize using the current EMS, new 3 way solenoid, and expert tuning is the right direction moving forward.
G
I have the PLX Wideband and now only use the module's 5V output as the DM-6 gauge module died within 6 months. I also bought the DM-100 on Amazon for $40, but it too was a POS. PLX customer service is terrible. Neat idea, horrible implementation. If you haven't invested any money in their stuff yet, I would look elsewhere.
#25
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Glad you found a way. I did a tidy up on my wires too. I can tell you it feels a lot better knowing there's not a nest of wires near the DME and under the dash.
What type of switch you plan to use? keep it all factory?
Im still waiting for PLX to send the damn order
What type of switch you plan to use? keep it all factory?
Im still waiting for PLX to send the damn order
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Switch
OE never had a "switch" or rotary dial for different boost levels/tunes. It's a toggle with 0, 1, 2, 3 wired into the EMS and solenoid that will switch maps with a spring only "valet" mode inside the lockable glove box that will override the visible toggle. Not much in this car is factory OE from 1989, but most of the hard parts are Porsche OE - none of the OE EMS is used.
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
The current EMS is set up for boost only towards WG opening, no matter the throttle position. This is fine for WOT, but partial throttle will add fuel/timing towards max boost setting. We are changing the EMS to read throttle position allowing the WG to allow the WG to open earlier based on pedal position. The EMS will now have about six different signals based on throttle position in each gear. Once past 80% towards wot, the fueling/timing/boost maps will see WOT only. Partial gas pedal will allow the WG to open based on a base of spring WG to around 14 psi, past 80% of movement full boost, depending on switch location will allow full boost based on the position of the toggle. We'll be tuning next week on a tuning dyno. Likely have spring at 8 psi, 16 psi, 20psi, and 23psi depending on seeing any knock counts using 91 pump fuel and the meth setup. Could likely go higher, if seeing zero knock readings, we'll add another "quick" boost setting for fun/passing stuff.
The toggle dial will have five boost settings, all integrated within the EMS and new solenoid/Electromotive/Snow's meth setup. Fun times using modern software/EMS.
G