NCLA951

Negative a few grand less, but I supposed a few hundred of that fee is other stuff, I think it was between 7-8 in pure tax.

Cat was 333009, clamped into Lindsey 3", fits that gap almost perfectly. A sympathetic tech is key to using the 3" cat. My guy ran the car for 5 minutes on the rollers before starting the sniffer, just to make sure it was as hot as it was getting. We will see how well it holds up in 2 years.

cas951

Where did you buy your cat from? Mine is due too and as usual always afraid.

NCLA951

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/381495589516

Much cleaner than my previous magnaflow.

kev951

your welcome lol

V2Rocket

my turn to blatantly hijack this thread...for my early NA, currently with stock DME and AFM installed...

can there be any other suspect but the FPR...

- if HC/CO readings are through the roof (gross polluter status, 2-3x HC limit, 6-7x CO limit, but with low NO reading about 1/4 the legal limit)
- car has new CA-legal O2 sensor, new DME coolant sensor, new air filter, good gas
- tested today with FQS in max lean position, and altitude switch plug shorted (both of these are supposed to cut fuel injector pulse time by 6%, each)
- CAT is CA-legal replacement from 4 years ago, and NO number is low.

car runs and drives very well, hauls *** around town, starts no problem, idles fine, sounds normal...etc. but today noticed the DME was kind of warm and the car cut out a few times.

this excessively rich condition and the hot dme/shutdown combo leads me to think too high fuel pressure...won't know until morning when i can see what i'm doing.

cas951

Thanks

Tom M'Guinn

Worth checking fuel pressure for sure. I'd also be inclined to check the AFM signal going to the DME (pin 7 on a turbo) to see if maybe the AFM is just reading high or scratchy. Also check the air temp sensor in the AFM (clarks has the specs -- something in the 2k range +/- 1K ballpark). The DME's temp sensor harness worth checking to be sure the new sensor reading is getting to the DME. Ignition all good? I'd also check to see if it's in closed loop -- and, if so, if maybe it's missing or not burning fully due to poor ignition or the like. DME solder joints? DME grounding? Sloppy or mismatch injectors? Global warning?

V2Rocket

Injectors, AFM and DME are all original to the car.
All those parts had been sitting for some time in storage while I had the Rogue MAF kit installed, though.

But the car runs great, never misses a beat so I don't believe any misfire is happening.
A few weeks ago with my MAF still installed the car did 136whp on the dyno, the only thing that has changed since then is swapping stock injectors/AFM/DME/new NBO2 sensor back on, nothing more.

Tested fuel pressure with a rail-end gauge I had, showed high pressure...but to verify I rented the fuel pressure kit from O'Reilly (brand new kit in box) and the FP reads correctly (30psi at idle, 37ish with vac line removed, fluctuating when given throttle and held open, jumps to 37psi when blipped to WOT by hand).

Suppose there could be a wiring issue but there's never been any problem before so "what changed?"

The car could use an oil change but I don't think dirty oil could throw the HC/CO THAT much.

Tom M'Guinn

In that case, I'd check the voltage the AMF is sending to the DME, and its temp sensor. Potentiometers in particular don't like to sit idle for a long time. Corrosion builds up from inactivity and can throw off the output. It's like the volume/tuning ***** on old radios that sit for too long (if anyone here is old enough to remember radios with *****). Worth checking anyway since it's the one thing you changed out...

V2Rocket

AFM IAT and DME coolant sensor check out according to Clark's specs.
I have a spare AFM so I might throw that in and see what happens.

Could the CAT be dead and cause high HC/CO but still low NO numbers?
The exhaust sprays black liquid out the back when you rev it.

Tom M'Guinn

Maybe a clogged cat could screw everything up from a VE perspective, but if it ran ok with the MAF...?

Black liquid out the exhaust is often condensation or coolant mixed with the soot in the exhaust. Does it do that even after a 10 mile drive? If it goes away, it's probably condensation. If not, it's probably coolant (HG or oil seals).

Trying a spare AFM or checking the sweeper track per clarks is probably the next best move, assuming the black liquid goes away once the car is fully warm... Have you checked the plugs for signs of steam cleaning? Milkshake in oil cap?

V2Rocket

Black liquid goes away once the car is up to temp and warm, I figured it was condensation.

But the car runs super rich still, getting behind the pipe while the guy runs the smog test has strong smell of unburnt gas, more than a second or two makes eyes water...filled the tank yesterday and calculated 19mpg when before it would do ~23-24 with the MAF.

No milkshake under cap once up to temp.

Just double-checked the DME plug for coolant temp sensor (before checked the sensor itself), ohms check out (so the wiring is OK).

As far as the AFM sitting...there have been times in the last 10 years that the car sits undriven or unstarted for 6 months at a time, never an issue before?

Tom M'Guinn

I have one that sits most of the time too and still works, but just saying it seems like the next logical thing to check --i.e., that the resistance sweeps smoothly as the door opens and that the voltage at idle is within an expected range (say .5-.75v at least on a turbo)... Not saying "that's it" at all, just trying to help brainstorm logical things to check.

V2Rocket

been poking at the O2 sensor now...
I installed it in a rush (fading daylight) and just used crimp connectors (since soldering can mess up the signal).

With probe jammed into the crimp was getting barely 10-15 mV relative to battery negative post.
Cut the wire off and stuck the probe directly on the O2 sensor signal wire (sensor side) and got 0.9V (indicating rich as it should be). when I touch the O2 signal wire to the corresponding car wire, voltage goes to 0.

shorted wire?

Tom M'Guinn

Can't quite tell from that description ? Best to test the voltage with everything connected and see if it dithers. Or just unplug it and see if car leans out...? I have an old ARM1 narrow band monitor that's perfect for seeing it the O2 sensor is working. I hate those crimp connectors though, especially for something with such low and touchy voltages... Do you have the old sensor to try or a spare?