When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The fuel line failure is a fire issue. Seems like the small pressure line to the injectors is the biggest issue. But I would recommend all 7; 3 in the engine compartment, and 4 at the gas tank.
My 87 951, developed a leak at the fuel filter hose, last month.
Lart has a good solution, on Ebay.
Or you can buy the Oetiker clamp kit and hose to make your own. You will need fuel injection hose in 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". You may have access to Metric, there are three sizes required.
Alan
The fuel line failure is a fire issue. Seems like the small pressure line to the injectors is the biggest issue. But I would recommend all 7; 3 in the engine compartment, and 4 at the gas tank.
My 87 951, developed a leak at the fuel filter hose, last month.
Lart has a good solution, on Ebay.
Or you can buy the Oetiker clamp kit and hose to make your own. You will need fuel injection hose in 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8". You may have access to Metric, there are three sizes required.
Alan
Excellent advise! I appréciate
I will buy, or may be, make a set ASAP.
No problems with the "imperial system"
Do be careful of the hatch lifts. Some are very strong and will ultimately pull the glass away from the metal frame.
I am of the opinion, better to have the hatch lift just keep the hatch open, but not too strong. I would really prefer a simple hatch prop system, but the hatch is heavy.
And you should check the battery box, these are rust prone areas. And will flood the foot well, left un-repaired.
Check the boots on the lower A arm. Lots of these are failed. There is a repair kit available.
Is you gasoline mixed with Ethanol? This is a big problem for our older cars in the USA.
These are great driving cars, if you can deal with the needy repairs for 27 year old cars.
Alan
104 Turbo S, where delivered in France. All of the French ones got the red “CUP” lettering after “TURBO” on the right back and above the Glove-box. They also got yellow road car lamp, as it was requested by the regulation at this time, until 1993.
Hey Philppe, show a pic of the back! Would like to see the badges. Congrats on the car!
Do be careful of the hatch lifts. Some are very strong and will ultimately pull the glass away from the metal frame.
I am of the opinion, better to have the hatch lift just keep the hatch open, but not too strong. I would really prefer a simple hatch prop system, but the hatch is heavy.
And you should check the battery box, these are rust prone areas. And will flood the foot well, left un-repaired.
Check the boots on the lower A arm. Lots of these are failed. There is a repair kit available.
Is you gasoline mixed with Ethanol? This is a big problem for our older cars in the USA.
These are great driving cars, if you can deal with the needy repairs for 27 year old cars.
Alan
Again thanks for your advices Alan
We have E95-E10 (Ethanol) But Ron95 et 98 are still available
Thirds on the hatch lifts. Be very careful. After delaminating one, repairing it, second delamination, I determined to fix it properly and buy used hatch lifts. The old hatch lifts, from Lart, work really well, very gently opening the hatch. Always help slow the lift with your hands, and don't use the automatic lift button that will allow the hatch to bang to a stop.
10-23-2015, 04:36 PM
Thirds on the hatch lifts. Be very careful. After delaminating one, repairing it, second delamination, I determined to fix it properly and buy used hatch lifts. The old hatch lifts, from Lart, work really well, very gently opening the hatch. Always help slow the lift with your hands, and don't use the automatic lift button that will allow the hatch to bang to a stop.
