Strut mount installation question
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 1986 944 Turbo with the stock strut mounts and with adjustable koni yellow struts. They have the strut nut for the shaft that I can tighten with an impact wrench. The question I have is how tight.
There is a gold "concave washer" that you tighten down with the nut. I was able to spin that freely before and I had some knocking during slow speed turning. I replaced the strut mounts and I tightened it this time with the impact wrench so that the gold concave washer won't move at all. Is that appropriate or should that gold concave washer be able to spin a bit as it was before?
To be clear, the gold concave washer is directly under the strut nut that you tighten from under the hood. Can someone check theirs to see if there is any movement? Can you shift it or spin it with your hand?
Thanks,
Mark
There is a gold "concave washer" that you tighten down with the nut. I was able to spin that freely before and I had some knocking during slow speed turning. I replaced the strut mounts and I tightened it this time with the impact wrench so that the gold concave washer won't move at all. Is that appropriate or should that gold concave washer be able to spin a bit as it was before?
To be clear, the gold concave washer is directly under the strut nut that you tighten from under the hood. Can someone check theirs to see if there is any movement? Can you shift it or spin it with your hand?
Thanks,
Mark
#2
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Get a pass through socket from a strut install kit. This will allow you to hold the rod still with an allen key while tightening the nut. DON'T use an impact on the top of the damper rod, the internal piston is attached to the rod by a threaded fastener and using an impact on the top of the rod can cause internal trouble over time. Yes the top nut should be tight, and the washer should not be able to turn, and this would cause a noise. "hand tight" should be sufficient, but I'm sure there is a torque value somewhere. I would guess it's at least 50 foot lbs, but again I have never checked.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It is 57 foot lbs. The Koni Yellows don't have the allen key hole at the top of the shaft. It is where you adjust the rebound of the shocks. I tried using a section of rubber hose and locking pliers on the shaft but could not get enough torque on it before the rubber slips. It was not even close to the torque needed. With no way to counter-torque (at least that I can see), I used the impact wrench by tapping the trigger to get a few taps at a time. I tightened it a little bit at a time until I could no longer move the concave washer underneath it at all including shifting as you push in on a side. Previously, one side making noise I could spin the concave washer freely by hand, the other side not making noise I could spin with some leverage and force by hand and shift it form side to side. Now, they don't move at all by hand and I would like to make sure that is the way it should be.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark