Milkcow060

Well as you guys know im looking for kind of a project 951 and was driving around my home town and found a car behind a building. So i made some phone calls and i talked to the seller, he wants 4k for the car or best offer. He said it has sat there for a year but when he parked the car it ran strong, what should i look out for, i wanna be able to drive it a bit. when i go to look at it what should i do before i start it? Is bad gas a problem, oil? what should i do to see if im getting a good deal or some 3k-4k worth of junk?

TonyG

Milkcow060

No offense, but if you're asking these types of questions, you need to have any car you purchase inspected by a repair shop (called a "pre-purchase inspection").

That $4k car is going to probably be a $10k car within a year.

You get what yo pay for never applied more than to a 951.

TonyG

A leak down test fills the combustion chamber with 100 psi of air. Assuming that you rotate the cylinder to be tested into a position with both of the valves closed, the cylinder will hold air.

Now although the cylinder holds air, a percentage will leak out over a specific period of time.

That percentage of air that leaks out, will be reflected in the amount of pressure remaining in the cylinder.

Subtract the psi in the cylinder from 100, and you get your leak down number.

Additionally, you can, if you have a loss of say (example) greater than 15%, usually hear where the air that is escaping from the cylinder is going.

If you hear air leaking into the intake manifold (heard through the throttle body, you can deduce that the problem is an intake valve. If you hear the air coming out the tail pipe, you can deduce that the problem is an exhaust valve.

If you remove the oil filler cap, and you hear the air leaking, then you can deduce that the air is going past the rings.

If you think it's the rings, you can further test this theory by adding a table spoon of oil to the cylinder and repeating the process. If the leak down percentage goes down (ie less leak down or more pressure remaining in the cylinder) you know pretty much for sure it's the rings.

All of this should be only considered a preliminary test and is no substitute for pulling things apart to verify problem areas.

Milkcow060

Ok thanks! I feel stupid I never knew that. As with the car I figure the worst thing that could be wrong is the motor and thats not even that bad so ill have to see! What do you guys really think i should look at for a car that sat for a year? Can i just try satrting it up or what?

Milkcow060

bump, im checking it out thursday and need your guys input fast.

Milkcow060

and one more bump

TonyG

Was the car sitting in side or outside?

Milkcow060

outside

dand86951

There are so many things that can be wrong with the cars that it is hard to tell you specifics. The clutch, the timing belts the wiring harrness, the turbo condition, the amount of oil leaks, the ball joints, the transmission synchros, the cv joints, the rod bearings, etc. all need to be looked at. That is why Tony suggested you get it looked at by a knowledgeable shop. Otherwise, start it, drive it and look it over very closely. They are great cars and this one may be real find but it may be sitting for the reason that it has many things wrong with it. If you are going to tear it apart and make it into project then things like oil leaks don't matter, things like clutch, transmission, suspension do matter.

Good Luck

Milkcow060

thanks, thats what i wanted for a reply. I dont think any thing very major is wrong with it cause the guy left it out when he could not afford to drive it cause of a devorce. Ill keep you guys posted to how really of a deal this car is. Ill take some pics tonight

Oddjob

Since youre looking for a project track car, Im assuming exterior/interior cosmetics are not a concern.

What about accessory functions: sunroof, power windows, cruise control, stereo and speakers, hatch latch motor, A/C heater control, headlight motor, etc? If youre going full track most of this wont matter, but if you want some functions for street use, check these components. Most are expensive to replace/fix.

Try to get any repair records to check for replacement of the water pump, belts, clutch, starter, fuel pump, etc... , then start it and drive it for sure. Look for oil, coolant, trans leaks both before and after driving.

Obviously you want the drive train to work. Engine mechanicals, transmission, clutch, torque tube, CV joints, power steering. Since you already have a similar car, be suspect of anything that doesnt feel or sound the same as your car (shifting, clutch engagement, trans noise, lifter noise, power band).

What year is it? Mileage? Does it have ABS (a plus for a track car)?

If there are not any records, and you are still interested in it after driving it, definitely get an shop inspection done.

Milkcow060

130k miles, 86' and i dont know about abs. Is it ok to just start the thing when it has been sitting for a year?

Oddjob

Didnt have ABS in 86, so that answers that.

>"Is it ok to just start the thing when it has been sitting for a year?"

Might want to open the air box and make sure a rodent didnt make a nest in the air filter. Seen it happen once to an wrecked 88 TS that was parked outside (maple seeds were falling out of the airbox snorkel), and heard of it happening to other cars. Check fluid levels. Other than that, I would try it.

Milkcow060

Ok guys i got it, its a 87, (the guy was wrong). I got a hell of a deal! It even starts. I picked up this bad boy for freakin 2k!

Milkcow060

and another pic