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Remove engine 944 turbo options

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Old 06-17-2015, 02:18 PM
  #16  
Alan 91 C2
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The car is off the wheels on the front. Easy to support from the tie down location aft of the front wheels.
Old 06-17-2015, 04:28 PM
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mtnman82
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Originally Posted by alxdgr8
I did just the engine/trans in first on the reinstall and then everything else later. The subframe and suspension went back in later as I did some upgrades to them. You could probably do it all as one piece, but would take a few hands to get everything aligned.
That's what I was curious about - seems like everything back in together might be tricky to get everything aligned. Engine first seems like it would be the cleanest way too. Good things to know. Thanks!
Old 06-22-2015, 12:00 PM
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Alan 91 C2
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I dropped out the engine with the transmission jack. The only thing I did not anticipate was the oil filter must be removed as the frame gets more narrow as the engine moves forward the 6". You could also have removed the alternator.

Otherwise complete stand up job. I will not try to roll the engine around on the jack as it is too top heavy. I'll pick the engine off the jack with the engine hoist.

I did tightly chain the crossmember to the trans jack plate, and I calculated the center of mass to be about 1-2" on the passenger side of the crankshaft, for the center of the jack. Getting the center of mass correct allows easier leveling with the trans jack screw axis adjustment.

Old 06-24-2015, 09:53 PM
  #19  
Alan 91 C2
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I expected better response from a method to drop the engine without crawling around on your back.

If you find value in the approach it is OK to say so. If no value I am OK with that too!

I thought part of this site was to share good, better, or best practice.

Personally, I find the approach to avoid working on my back worthwhile. In fact, I will probably drop the engine of the 951 S car to work on the turbo, as it is soo much easier to work on the engine at eye level.
Old 06-24-2015, 10:33 PM
  #20  
Tom M'Guinn

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Originally Posted by Alan 91 C2
I expected better response from a method to drop the engine without crawling around on your back.

If you find value in the approach it is OK to say so. If no value I am OK with that too!

I thought part of this site was to share good, better, or best practice.

Personally, I find the approach to avoid working on my back worthwhile. In fact, I will probably drop the engine of the 951 S car to work on the turbo, as it is soo much easier to work on the engine at eye level.

Don't take it personally. It's always hit or miss as to the reaction you'll get, if any. I'm glad you were able to get it out without crawling around. The tall jack makes me a bit nervous but a big sturdy rolling tool box like Edd China uses might address that nicely. Congrats on the progress! If I'm fortunate enough to have a lift when removing one of these motors someday, I'll keep this in mind. Until then, you'll find me crawling on the floor.
Old 06-24-2015, 11:18 PM
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Alan 91 C2
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Thanks Tom,

I was actually suprised how well balanced the engine is on the trans jack. I rolled it over 20 feet around the shop, and was very stable.

This is my new preferred method to drop the engine.
Old 06-25-2015, 01:51 PM
  #22  
topley
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Good job. What is the distance between the runners on your 4 post lift? I just did this on my 4 post (out with an N/A, in with a turbo) but I used a hoist and went through the top. Wasn't too bad but it was a 2 person job (especially going back in...) I was curious if it would fit through the bottom of mine.
Thanks,
Jay
Old 06-26-2015, 08:36 AM
  #23  
Alan 91 C2
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The ramps are about 16" wide and adjustable for the tire track width. I installed the engine solo last night.

Two people are always best to observe and work.

I had the A/C hoses rebuilt while the engine was out. Along with a rebuilt rack and pinion.



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