Alan 91 C2

The car is on a drive on lift. I am thinking to use a transmission jack, shown below, as I seem to be more challenged to use creepers every passing year.

I think I can stabilize the engine on the jack. Just enough to drop out of the chassis, and hook to the shop engine crane. Anyone use this approach?

Tom M'Guinn

If you have a lift, isn't it a lot easier to attach a cherry picker from the top, drop it to the floor, and lift the body up and off it?

Paulyy

Yep.

I have a chain hoist on a huge frame. i attached some slings from both points on top engine to the chain. then just dropped it from the bottom.

ekoz

Haven't done this but you stated you have a drive on lift. I assume it's a four post lift, will it fit through the drive on ramps when you drop it down?

Alan 91 C2

My "B" option is to cable from above to drop the engine, with my electric hoist, and the car on the 4 post lift.

The "A" plan would be to drop the engine with the jack. And then lift it off the jack with the engine hoist, before moving the jack under the car. The jack is rated at 1,000 pounds, but the size of the motor makes rolling the assembly seem unstable, as the jack minimum height is about 40". I think with the cross member attached to the motor and oil pan surface, I have a large enough area to securely distribute the load across the jack top plate. And I can chain the cross member to the jack, so everything is stable.

Tom M'Guinn

I'm sure you could make both work. I suspect you are making it harder than it needs to be though. If your goal is to remain standing the whole time (which I envy) then maybe use a support brace on top (see link) and get it all disconnected while standing. Then lower the car, ease the motor to the floor, and then raise the car so you can collect the motor. Oh, and if you plan to mount the motor on a stand, order the oddball bolts now.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

P.S. I saw Edd China drop a VW motor onto the top of a rolling tool chest on Wheeler Dealers, which I thought was a neat trick. That's kind of like what you want to do, though the tool chest had a nice stable flat top perfect for the VW motor. The 944 motor is kattywompus by comparison....

alxdgr8

Yep, easy with a 2-post. A 4-post shouldn't be much different, everything should fit between the rails.

Can't quite drop the full engine/subframe/suspension like you can on a 4-post, but anything sure beats using jackstands.

Alan 91 C2

Thanks guys for the comments.

I do find it easier to discuss options, as opposed to "Hey Y'all watch this".

I have gotten used to all my fingers and toes. And would like to keep them.

I think plan "A" will be a go. As it is a one person event.

While the motor is out, I will remove my A/C lines to get them updated with the new style hose, as I use R134a.

The car is an 87 turbo, compared to my 88 S car, the suspension is SO smooth. The M030 is fun for hard driving.

azbanks

When the car is on the lift, put a large piece of cardboard under the engine area. Use the engine hoist to lower the engine down onto the cardboard. Remove the engine hoist leaving the engine on the cardboard. Lift the car up and over the engine. Slide the cardboard with the engine on it out from under the car. If the garage floor is smooth, it will slide surprisingly easy.

The lid to a large trash can may be used instead of cardboard.

944hal

+1 on the cardboard trick to slide the engine out from under the car. I've used that trick a couple of times. An old piece of carpet also works.

theedge

Carpet on something smooth, I used some carpet on smooth white peg board once and it was much easier than carpet on concrete.

spives

This is how I should have done it! Normally I have access to a lift but the car was in a different garage when I decided to pull the engine. A week of on and off frustration and the engine finally came out the bottom. I used the engine hoist to lift the car up high enough to slide the engine out underneath the nose.

Next time I'll follow your example!

mtnman82

How do you guys get it back in when you drop the whole assembly like that? Do you put it back in as a complete assembly, or struts first, then engine, then crossmember?

alxdgr8

I did just the engine/trans in first on the reinstall and then everything else later. The subframe and suspension went back in later as I did some upgrades to them. You could probably do it all as one piece, but would take a few hands to get everything aligned.

FRporscheman

If the car is on a drive-on lift, and the car is resting on its wheels, then how will he remove the crossmember? Am I missing something?