SlightlyoffAxis

I turn to the experts for help on my problem. One day my idle began hunting between 1100rpm and 2000rpm this was just a week or so after I set it at about 900rpm from the 1100rpm it had be idling at.

I have replaced the TPS, all the vacuum hoses I could find, checked and cleaned the ICV and throttle body, did a Venturi delete while I was in there, and check every wire or hose I came across with the intake manifold off.

I put it all back together last night and started it this morning. Same thing, an idle hunting between 1100rpm and 2000rpm. Video Link
Any ideas? I read somewhere in an archived forum that one guy found it was caused by a loose rotor button but little else.

Thank you in advance.

SlightlyoffAxis

I just discovered the blower does not come on in the cabin no matter where I select the speed. Electrical and connected?

AlphaOmegaPower

Have you tried a throttle body reseal?

fiily

I would bypass your icv and see if it smooths out your idle, then you can determine if the icv is bad.

Stop throwing your money around until you determine what you issue is. Your fan blower not working, have you thought of the simple stuff?

Fuses, is your blower resistor there? You need to start reading, and doing searches on here and other forums.

Not trying to be a jerk, just trying to hold you accountable for your car and its well-being.

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/IDLE944T.html

AlphaOmegaPower

I'm not the op. Not sure why you quoted me.
Replacing things that are old isn't throwing money around.
Problems particularly idle issues can be synergistic. It's best to fix what should have been fixed long ago.

SlightlyoffAxis

I unplugged the TPS and the idle was smooth but at 3000rpm. I could not adjust the idle lower using the jumper method. The PO did no preventative maintenance and I've been playing catch up. I have a list of fifty items or more that I have replaced that needed replacing from cracked hoses to pulling about a pound of leaves and a rats nest from behind the balance shaft to brakes and rotors, oil seals and exhaust. I started with the obvious stuff, fuses, relays, wires loose or unconnected, replaced about five feet of vacuum hose, made sure all the hoses were correctly attached etc. I double checked everything I listed above. I have read various forums and searched the web for more than a month before I posted the question above. So I feel comfortable I have done my due diligence before posting a question the answer for which is easily available to. That is why I posed it here. I have a reseal kit but can hear no air when using a stethoscope around the throttle body nor does MAF cleaner affect the idle when sprayed in that area. Thanks for the suggestion though.

fiily

Did you verify your TPS is set correctly? Click on opening, click on closing? Still sounds like your ICV is sticking. What if you loosen the throttle cable, give it some slack and manually close the throttle plate and see if that fixes your jumping idle...my bet is still on the ICV, but at least verify the above.

fiily

No offense meant. Just trying to save Op from going down the rabbit hole of fix everything because its old, but not broken, and the problem still persists.

SlightlyoffAxis

The throttle cable has about 4-5mm of slack when fully closed. The TPS "clicks" as soon as the butterfly begins to move and again as it passes back to idle. Ever since I have gotten it back from the shop, about a year ago, the throttle stop has not be in contact with the set screw. I even tried changing that to the recommended setting, just touching then a half turn and securing the lock nut. To no avail. SO it is back where it was not touching. Thanks for the suggestions though.

JacRyann

Most likely the throttle-plate and TPS are misaligned. It's using the TPS's limit of rotation as the stop.

1. Take throttle-body completely off
2. Look at throttle-plate, it should be fully closed
3. Remove TPS, adjust stop-screw so throttle-plate is closed.
4. Re-install TPS so it clicks closed and just opening
5. Electronically verify TPS idle-switch
6. Re-install throttle-body

Oh yeah, replace the throttle-shaft O-rings while you're in there. It can leak enough air through the shaft seal to mess up your idle.

SlightlyoffAxis

I will do that. I did it on the car yesterday several times and at one point it actually improved but not enough to drive.

I can tell you that with the throttle body off and in the closed position it is not completely closed. I can see light around the edges at various places. I will post a pic of that in hopes that you can tell if that is an issue. I have a rebuild kit for it and can use the seal from it when I put it back on the intake manifold.

I have the TPS, after several hours of trying, clicking with about 1-2 degrees of rotation of the shaft. Is that sufficient?

Thank you.

I'll replace the shaft seals as well.