I was running a K26/6 with MBC set to 15psi max (~12psi at redline) and Autothority chip. The Autothority chip ran rich when the boost hit (~10:1), then tapered towards more reasonable AFRs at redline (~11.5:1).

Knowing nothing about the tune other than the brand name (it was in there when I purchased the car, and it's old) I decided to move on to the M-Tune for safety and piece of mind when I installed the Super 48.

I'm confident I'll get this sorted with Joshua and Dave's help. Joshua and Dave gave me some things to check this weekend, I'll report back.

Can a collapsed exhaust make the car run rich? I bought a bore scope (USB endoscope) and will fish it up the exhaust this weekend to check that too.

 

My car was running ok. I want to say the car was running rich prior to the install but the WB02 sensor was located near the wastegate which could have been giving a false reading. I moved it to the proper location prior to going in the shop and it was reading rich. There was a few things that needed to be done. But there was a difference in dyno results before and after the install. I lost some hp. I am going to wait to see what the shop comes up with after they talked with Josh. I will let you guys know what they find.

 

Just curious what brand wide band o2 are you using?

 

Not sure who you were asking. Mine is an Innovate LC-1 with G2 gauge

 

I have an LC-1 also. I have not driven my car much since M-tune but I am wondering if it may be the LC-1.

I will be driving mine this weekend and will also recalibrate it. My AFR's are a little off. It does respond to the frequency switch changes and I also need to double check my fuel pressure.

There was a recent post about LC-1 issues.

I will be trying a different brand o2 sensor since I'm building 2 more project 951's

 

My first go around I had the second version of the Innovate wide band tuning tool. It was TERRIBLE. Constantly locking up (though admittedly more trouble when running an RPM trace to it). One of my local friends has good luck with an autometer WB, and i bought a PLX devices WB for my chump car. I've had enough good luck with it that I bought a second for my 944. I believe Zietronics used to be the big name in german car world. Never had one so I can't comment. All I can say is that I had enough trouble with my innovate product and their customer service that I will never buy another product from them.

 

I am using a AEM Wideband. Below is link to their website for the one I am using. I had to replace mine because it stop working. That's when I noticed it was in the wrong location from the previous owner put it. Based on instructions, the previous location could have shorten its life span. I noticed that it was much more accurate and stable in the correct location vs the old location.

At idle and normal driving my car hovers around 14.7. Which is ok but who wants to drive normal with our cars. Only at full boost does my A/F ratio drops close to 10.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/?q=pro...uego-afr-gauge

 

One problem that was discovered, on this board I think, was that the LC-1 uses an analogue output to the display which uses an unregulated reference voltage. When your battery-voltage changes, the AFR displayed changes as well. There are other WBO2 products that uses a digital interface between controller and display that's not sensitive to power-supply fluctuations.

 

So, for example, if your vehicle voltage goes down, in which direction will AFR display go?

 

The LC-1 outputs 1v=10 AFR and 2v=20 AFR. So if the reference voltage does down, the AFR display should read leaner than before.

 

I never read anywhere that a collapsed pipe can make your car run rich. I might have my car scoped as well. Please someone correct me if I am wrong, but from reading these forums, if the collapsed is in the crossover you may make little to no boost. If the collapsed pipe is in the downpipe to cat then you may make boost the but engine and turbo will definitely have to work a lot harder to overcome the restriction. Engine may feel bogged down or held back so to speak. If mine happens to be collapsed, I will let you know which one and difference in the car.

 

When I first bought my 88 951, it would only make 1.4-1.5 boost. The down pipe was collapsed. The engine ran good, just not much power. As this was my first 951, I did not really know what to expect for power.

I cut the pipe up, removed the inner liner, and welded back together. Then WOW power.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Wow that's incredible.

 

My car will boost to 16 psi but the engine seems real lazy like it want to go but can't. I have only two small sections of stock piping left. Everything else is 3" exhaust and newly built first section of the crossover pipe.

I see from the picture this look like the section of the exhaust that goes to the cat. I know some call section from turbo exhaust to the cat, the downpipe. But was your small section of piping coming off the turbo that bolts to the exhaust going to the cat collapsed as well?

 

I have that section of exhaust removed from my 89 951 at 69K miles if you need it. Send me a PM if you are interested.