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Tough starting and running rich

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Old 06-19-2015, 02:34 PM
  #151  
fejjj
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Ant
Alternator ripple can be due to poor grounding...

At this point, not addressing the grounds at the back of the motor, and battery would be asinine.
Don't just look at them, pull them off, clean them, inspect thoroughly, and re-install or replace as necessary.

While there, take the time to address the other things I mentioned in post #99.

Afterwords, if the problem persists and the KLR is suspect, then try replacing it with a known-good unit.

They did check the items listed in Post 99.

They are now going to remove, clean and reinstall the Bell housing and battery grounds.
Old 06-23-2015, 10:35 PM
  #152  
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Unhappy

Bell housing and Battery grounds inspected and cleaned.

No change.

Anyone have a known good KLR I can try?
Old 06-25-2015, 03:18 PM
  #153  
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Looking to borrow a known good KLR.

Does anyone have one to lend me to test?
Old 06-25-2015, 06:15 PM
  #154  
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What do you think the KLR is doing that's contributing to the rich condition?
Old 06-25-2015, 10:05 PM
  #155  
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Rich condition was solved with the new MAP sensor/wiring.
Old 06-26-2015, 10:34 PM
  #156  
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Jumper the ignition signal out from the DME back in. This removes the KLR's ignition-retard on knock feature. Will let you confirm or deny the KLR's culprit.
Old 07-18-2015, 11:21 PM
  #157  
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I finally got around to swapping in another KLR.

More frustration as there was no change.

Car was still stumbling at various RPM's and always around 5200.

When I pulled my vac line off of my existing KLR, liquid came dripping out of it. It smelled like E85. WTH is that? I am thinking maybe the FPR or FPD I replaced caused that.

After I swapped in the other KLR and drove it, I pulled the vac line and it was dry.

My frustration level is high at this point. Our season is half over and I have barely driven the car.

What next?
Old 07-19-2015, 07:35 AM
  #158  
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I can't offer up any new ideas really, but just wanted to say keep at it, hopefully you will have a very reliable car after getting to the bottom of this.
Old 07-20-2015, 12:05 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by hally
I can't offer up any new ideas really, but just wanted to say keep at it, hopefully you will have a very reliable car after getting to the bottom of this.

Thanks for your encouragement.

What should I do next guys?
Old 07-21-2015, 12:59 AM
  #160  
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Any help here guys?
Old 07-21-2015, 01:22 AM
  #161  
Tom M'Guinn

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What is your zip code? Perhaps there is someone near you who can help.
Old 07-21-2015, 01:39 AM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
What is your zip code? Perhaps there is someone near you who can help.
14564
Old 07-21-2015, 01:46 AM
  #163  
Tom M'Guinn

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How about Chris White?
Old 07-21-2015, 01:55 AM
  #164  
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I don't have time to read the whole tread. So check or replace you crank and reference sponsors. Also check your vacuum lines. And your M tune MAF may not be tuned to your injectors. But I'm guessing it is. Check your return fuel line for damage. I had a primary smashed(off track event before I bought it)and had to replace it. Coolant temp sensor would do the same symptoms. What kind of engine test tools do you have? Test the fuel pressure if you haven't. Dont just replace parts if you havn't tested it. If your running low impedance injectors (2.5) you need a 1ohm resistor or you may have damaged the drivers in the DME.
Old 07-21-2015, 01:56 AM
  #165  
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Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
How about Chris White?
Good idea.

I will call him.



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