Rogue_Ant

No, that wasn't a negative sign.
That was a tilde, meaning approximately:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilde#Common_use


There should be no negative voltages from the MAP sensor (or much else for that matter).

fejjj

Thank you for clarifying.

I replaced the MAP sensor on Saturday but not the plug. The new plug has a 6 inch pigtail on it. So with the new plug and new wire I would have a splice at the plug end and a splice at the DME end.

Is that an issue or would I be better off buying another plug with a 4 foot harness?

Rogue_Ant

Yes.

fejjj

I would like to have one complete wire running from the MAP plug to the DME.

Does anyone know which pin extractor tool I need for the DME pins?

JacRyann

I use one of these:

Eagle Day - terminal extraction tool

fejjj

Thanks Jac.

$60 ouch!

I found this one on eBay.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US

JacRyann

The one you need is the upper purple one. A small precision flat-tip screwdriver also works well. Takes flipping the screwdriver a little to depress the catch. With the tool, the thickness of the blade depresses it just right. Push in, pull wire and terminal comes out. No wiggling needed.

fejjj

Replaced the MAP sensor plug and harness to the DME.

First drive revealed no change. Car would cut out under minimal boost.

I went home, grabbed the logger and went for a drive. This time the car boosted to 5200 with only a couple minor stumbles on the way to 5200. I did get the cut/backfire at 5200.

The MAP signal looks to be correct now.

Xaerran

Can you post the log?

So, MAP sensor seems to be accurate, but you are still getting the cut of boost at 5200 and running rich?

fejjj

I will post the logs later. I wasn't paying as much attention to the AFR.

On the second drive I spoke about above, I did have a couple of minor stumbles before the cut/backfire at 5200.

gruhsy

I have not read everything here but just want to check. Do you have the LR m-tune? If so what tune and is there a jumper wire already attached to the DME? If you read my recent thread about M-tune i had a factory jumper installed so i was rinning in Valet mode tune 6 when i thought i was in tune 5. Valet mode runs funny under load and cuts out at Rpm and boost

See my thread

fejjj

Thanks for your input grushy.

The M Tune I have is pre LR which is different than your setup and Joshua has been helping me.

Rogue_Ant

Yep, now time to move onto the other things I linked/mentioned earlier in the thread..

fejjj

Update!

My mechanic determined 2 things.

1. When it cuts out, the coil is losing the trigger signal from the KLR.

2. There is excessive ripple in the Alternator.

What should I do next?

Rogue_Ant

Alternator ripple can be due to poor grounding...

At this point, not addressing the grounds at the back of the motor, and battery would be asinine.
Don't just look at them, pull them off, clean them, inspect thoroughly, and re-install or replace as necessary.

While there, take the time to address the other things I mentioned in post #99.

Afterwords, if the problem persists and the KLR is suspect, then try replacing it with a known-good unit.