ARC2-A Settings (Again)
09-06-2003, 11:09 AM
#1
Cruisin'
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ARC2-A Settings (Again)
Hi fellas,
I'm still having some difficulty dialing in these ARC2-A settings. The car idles well, and the ARM1 dithers at idle and while cruising as it should. At moderate throttle I'm on the first blue LED of the ARM1. I cannot for the life of me get the ARM1 to stay on the first blue LED at WOT. I even tried turning the High control down to 7:30 (its lowest setting) and still get the second blue LED as soon as the WOT switch is activated. I have also noticed that if I'm cruising and come to a stop, the ARM1 will stay on the blue LEDs for 3-5 seconds before it begins to cycle again. My boost gauge shows 19in. at idle on a warm engine and 23in. under engine braking, so I don't believe I have any vacuum leaks.....
My list of mods once again :
SFR Stage 4 MAF (with hardpipes and Godzilla BOV)
SFR 3" testpipe
SFR 3" catback
Tial 46mm Wastegate
MBC (set to 15 psi)
Stock Injectors
Stock FPR
APE Stage II Chipset
My ARC2-A settings :
Low : 10:00
Mid: 2:30
High : 8:00
Accel : 12:30
I suspect that my APE chipset is the root of the problem. I say this because I installed my SFR parts in stages. The first stage of the installation included the wastegate, testpipe, cat-back, 4-wire O2 sensor, MBC and ARM1. With just these parts on the car and the boost set to 15psi, I still had the second blue LED on the ARM1 anytime I was at WOT.
Danno, do you have a chipset that will clean this up for me? I e-mailed you about two weeks ago, but you never responded to me......
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
I'm still having some difficulty dialing in these ARC2-A settings. The car idles well, and the ARM1 dithers at idle and while cruising as it should. At moderate throttle I'm on the first blue LED of the ARM1. I cannot for the life of me get the ARM1 to stay on the first blue LED at WOT. I even tried turning the High control down to 7:30 (its lowest setting) and still get the second blue LED as soon as the WOT switch is activated. I have also noticed that if I'm cruising and come to a stop, the ARM1 will stay on the blue LEDs for 3-5 seconds before it begins to cycle again. My boost gauge shows 19in. at idle on a warm engine and 23in. under engine braking, so I don't believe I have any vacuum leaks.....
My list of mods once again :
SFR Stage 4 MAF (with hardpipes and Godzilla BOV)
SFR 3" testpipe
SFR 3" catback
Tial 46mm Wastegate
MBC (set to 15 psi)
Stock Injectors
Stock FPR
APE Stage II Chipset
My ARC2-A settings :
Low : 10:00
Mid: 2:30
High : 8:00
Accel : 12:30
I suspect that my APE chipset is the root of the problem. I say this because I installed my SFR parts in stages. The first stage of the installation included the wastegate, testpipe, cat-back, 4-wire O2 sensor, MBC and ARM1. With just these parts on the car and the boost set to 15psi, I still had the second blue LED on the ARM1 anytime I was at WOT.
Danno, do you have a chipset that will clean this up for me? I e-mailed you about two weeks ago, but you never responded to me......
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated......
09-06-2003, 01:42 PM
#3
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'll agree on the WB-02, but for now, if you are careful, you can get it in the ballpark with the ARM-1.
Do these for a base:
Low 12:00
Mid 11:00
High 12:00
Accel 11:00
Try that and carefully tune it back in using a combination of Mid and High to tune out the upper end richness. I always tune my ARC-2 backwards... limp it to the highway pretty rich, then get on it (carefully) and get the full throttle tuned. Then, coast at 55 in 4th gear and get the mid set so you have a good dither. Alternate from 1/4 and 3/4 throttle and adjust the mid until it is smooth and you have no lean spots. Next you'll toss in the clutch and coast at idle, tuning the low so it gets back to a dither ASAP without going lean when you return to the throttle.
Finally, at a stop, blip the throttle and adjust the ACCEL until it revs clean. You can also use the ACCEL to richen the on/off/on throttle transitions. Mine goes a bit lean when I have to blip the throttle in higher RPM situations. Using the ACCEL, I tuned it out to a safe area.
When you get the time and $$, go for the Guru chips and re-tune. I'll be doing the same this winter.
Do these for a base:
Low 12:00
Mid 11:00
High 12:00
Accel 11:00
Try that and carefully tune it back in using a combination of Mid and High to tune out the upper end richness. I always tune my ARC-2 backwards... limp it to the highway pretty rich, then get on it (carefully) and get the full throttle tuned. Then, coast at 55 in 4th gear and get the mid set so you have a good dither. Alternate from 1/4 and 3/4 throttle and adjust the mid until it is smooth and you have no lean spots. Next you'll toss in the clutch and coast at idle, tuning the low so it gets back to a dither ASAP without going lean when you return to the throttle.
Finally, at a stop, blip the throttle and adjust the ACCEL until it revs clean. You can also use the ACCEL to richen the on/off/on throttle transitions. Mine goes a bit lean when I have to blip the throttle in higher RPM situations. Using the ACCEL, I tuned it out to a safe area.
When you get the time and $$, go for the Guru chips and re-tune. I'll be doing the same this winter.
09-06-2003, 09:26 PM
#4
Rennlist Junkie Forever
The ARM1 is pretty darn accurate. I ran it for years.
I'd change out the chips with Huntley, or Guru, or some other...
Also, you may want to check your fuel pump, and make sure it is not getting tired.
I'd change out the chips with Huntley, or Guru, or some other...
Also, you may want to check your fuel pump, and make sure it is not getting tired.
09-08-2003, 12:09 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
You may want to check your ground wires. The ARM1 shows very small changes in voltages, so the ground becomes critical. Try running a dedicated ground wire from the ARM1 and O2 sensor to the battery.