Overheating diagnosis help
05-03-2015, 08:37 AM
#16
Drifting
I knew it would be a plastic impeller ( it couldn't be anything else ) & yes they are fine for the first thousand heat cycles ( figuratively speaking )but like all water pump impellers on every car built ( any make or model ) in this century , we just live with their long term symptoms .
As for the old water pump , its way way too old , throw it in the bid where it belongs ( the bearing within & its seal would be on their last legs anyway )
As for the old water pump , its way way too old , throw it in the bid where it belongs ( the bearing within & its seal would be on their last legs anyway )
Last edited by JET951; 05-03-2015 at 07:16 PM. Reason: add content
05-04-2015, 07:41 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Three hours of dismantling later, I got the pump off. The impeller is spinning freely on the shaft (completely loose). Contrary to my earlier post regarding the impeller being metal, I stand corrected, it is black plastic. The impeller is attached to the shaft by a brass (?) bushing that has serrated edges that key into the plastic impeller bore.
The impeller has its own part number 944 106 036 00. It would seem that if one had a new impeller, it would be possible to push in a new impeller. This then presents a question, how do you rebuild a pump if the impeller is not separately available?
Too late for me now as I have ordered a new pump, but an interesting question nonetheless.
The impeller has its own part number 944 106 036 00. It would seem that if one had a new impeller, it would be possible to push in a new impeller. This then presents a question, how do you rebuild a pump if the impeller is not separately available?
Too late for me now as I have ordered a new pump, but an interesting question nonetheless.
Or find someone who specialises in this: http://www.evergold88.com/trading/en...Path=0,166,170,
I agree with giving the old pump a "flotation test". Throw it in the ocean and if it floats, keep it...
05-04-2015, 09:17 PM
#18
Pro
