Restart trouble after re-assembly
#31
First year of turbo is 86 so that rules out the crappy early ignition switch but leaves factory alarm in question. also did you check the other ground on the bell housing that could cause some intermittent problems if its dirty.
#33
Pro
Thread Starter
I haven't tested for spark since fitting the new coil... will report back.
I've just been looking at sensors, and I can't quite make out whether the speed and reference sensors are actually two examples of the same unit (FAE seems to make 'em)
I've just been looking at sensors, and I can't quite make out whether the speed and reference sensors are actually two examples of the same unit (FAE seems to make 'em)
#34
Three Wheelin'
#36
Three Wheelin'
#38
grounds and faulty connectors.
the sensors are not expensive unless you go for OEM. here is a link for them at 32 dollars each the brand is FAE I have run many of these without any issues.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...606-115-00-OEM
the sensors are not expensive unless you go for OEM. here is a link for them at 32 dollars each the brand is FAE I have run many of these without any issues.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...606-115-00-OEM
#40
Pro
Thread Starter
Well, it's not the speed and reference sensors. Just changed them, and the engine is still cranking without catching.
This is really starting to get quite aggravating…
Divil: to answer your earlier question, I've only observed a positive result (ie. spark indication), when the engine is running, or starts up properly. The coil was grounded to its usual grounding point, via the green cable., which I think is where I was grounding the extra spark plug when I was doing that test.
As the sensor replacement hasn't achieved anything, I'll do spark testing again, not sure what's next…
This is really starting to get quite aggravating…
Divil: to answer your earlier question, I've only observed a positive result (ie. spark indication), when the engine is running, or starts up properly. The coil was grounded to its usual grounding point, via the green cable., which I think is where I was grounding the extra spark plug when I was doing that test.
As the sensor replacement hasn't achieved anything, I'll do spark testing again, not sure what's next…
#41
Three Wheelin'
Well, it's not the speed and reference sensors. Just changed them, and the engine is still cranking without catching.
This is really starting to get quite aggravating…
Divil: to answer your earlier question, I've only observed a positive result (ie. spark indication), when the engine is running, or starts up properly. The coil was grounded to its usual grounding point, via the green cable., which I think is where I was grounding the extra spark plug when I was doing that test.
As the sensor replacement hasn't achieved anything, I'll do spark testing again, not sure what's next…
This is really starting to get quite aggravating…
Divil: to answer your earlier question, I've only observed a positive result (ie. spark indication), when the engine is running, or starts up properly. The coil was grounded to its usual grounding point, via the green cable., which I think is where I was grounding the extra spark plug when I was doing that test.
As the sensor replacement hasn't achieved anything, I'll do spark testing again, not sure what's next…
If you've never succeeded in generating a spark with this test, then you have to consider the possibility that you're not testing it correctly. Either way, I think you should get to the bottom of this no spark issue before going any further.
#42
Pro
Thread Starter
I've just repeated the test, grounding the coil negative terminal to the ground point at the rear of the engine bay (with the green lead removed, of course). No spark.
I do see 12V-stylee sparks at the ground-to-coil point when I make and break that, but nothing at the spark plug.
I'm definitely open to the idea that I'm not doing the test properly, however! I'll look at the HT lead from the coil also... it just struck me that it's a link in the chain that hasn't been tested, and given that I have a new coil there's not much else there to create a problem.
I do see 12V-stylee sparks at the ground-to-coil point when I make and break that, but nothing at the spark plug.
I'm definitely open to the idea that I'm not doing the test properly, however! I'll look at the HT lead from the coil also... it just struck me that it's a link in the chain that hasn't been tested, and given that I have a new coil there's not much else there to create a problem.
#43
Three Wheelin'
I've just repeated the test, grounding the coil negative terminal to the ground point at the rear of the engine bay (with the green lead removed, of course). No spark.
I do see 12V-stylee sparks at the ground-to-coil point when I make and break that, but nothing at the spark plug.
I'm definitely open to the idea that I'm not doing the test properly, however! I'll look at the HT lead from the coil also... it just struck me that it's a link in the chain that hasn't been tested, and given that I have a new coil there's not much else there to create a problem.
I do see 12V-stylee sparks at the ground-to-coil point when I make and break that, but nothing at the spark plug.
I'm definitely open to the idea that I'm not doing the test properly, however! I'll look at the HT lead from the coil also... it just struck me that it's a link in the chain that hasn't been tested, and given that I have a new coil there's not much else there to create a problem.
I wonder if the HT lead can be substituted for a plain test lead to the spark plug, just for the purpose of the test...I don't see any reason why not. Or maybe one of the distributor to plug leads will fit for a quick test?
#44
Pro
Thread Starter
Battery's all the way at the back, behind the left rear wheel arch.
I had the same thought about swapping for distributor-to-plug leads, but the connectors are wrong - as in, the coil end of the short HT lead has a very different connector to the plug leads, so they can't be plugged straight into the coil.
I checked the short HT lead, and it shows quite low resistance, under 1 Ohm - which I think indicates that it's OK.
I had the same thought about swapping for distributor-to-plug leads, but the connectors are wrong - as in, the coil end of the short HT lead has a very different connector to the plug leads, so they can't be plugged straight into the coil.
I checked the short HT lead, and it shows quite low resistance, under 1 Ohm - which I think indicates that it's OK.
#45
Three Wheelin'
Battery's all the way at the back, behind the left rear wheel arch.
I had the same thought about swapping for distributor-to-plug leads, but the connectors are wrong - as in, the coil end of the short HT lead has a very different connector to the plug leads, so they can't be plugged straight into the coil.
I checked the short HT lead, and it shows quite low resistance, under 1 Ohm - which I think indicates that it's OK.
I had the same thought about swapping for distributor-to-plug leads, but the connectors are wrong - as in, the coil end of the short HT lead has a very different connector to the plug leads, so they can't be plugged straight into the coil.
I checked the short HT lead, and it shows quite low resistance, under 1 Ohm - which I think indicates that it's OK.
Do you still have the coil you replaced? Since there was no change with the new one, the old coil was probably fine. So you could bring it around to the back of the car with 2 test leads, and the HT lead/plug attached - then do the test there directly off the battery.