Restart trouble after re-assembly
05-19-2015, 03:36 PM
#91
It's a very easy job to do the harnesses. A little time but very easy. The instructions on their website are also very good.
I don't doubt that it would be a good thing in the long run, but it would hardly be a quick job –*thinking about where the DME wiring comes through the firewall and by the AOS, I can see a good few hours of very sweary manipulating-greasy-things-in-confined-spaces looming. Also, what's the DME multipin connector like to crack open and play with? I assume the LR harnesses go all the way to the DME pins.
05-19-2015, 07:10 PM
#92
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If I were you, I would replace the injector harness, ref sensor harness and knock sensor harness, all at the same time. The best way to do the latter two is to pull the intake manifold. LR sells all three and actually, other than the time to pull the intake mani, etc. it's not a hard job. Actually, I found that fishing the damned harnesses through the firewall, in into place, the biggest PITA. But, it wioll set you up for a long time to come. Good luck!
05-19-2015, 09:40 PM
#93
Three Wheelin'
To get the wires through the firewall, once you've made the hole in the rubber grommet, push a short plastic tube through. Then pass the wires through that, and pull the tube through from the inside and remove it. You can use the same trick to get them through the tough rubber seals that go around all the wires where they go into the DME/KLR connectors. I used a ball point pen tube with the tapered end cut off. They wouldn't all fit through at once, but you can do them one at a time this way without damaging anything.
05-20-2015, 10:22 AM
#94
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It's the bit where the harness is attached to the block/bellhousing that looks tricky to me... when I removed the AOS and turbo I loosened the bolt for the p-clip (can't remember why!), and having replaced the AOS I found that I couldn't even do the bolt back up. Did you guys have trouble with that? Maybe I just didn't figure out the right way to approach it.
I've replaced the injector connectors and so far so good - will take another test drive this afternoon.
I've replaced the injector connectors and so far so good - will take another test drive this afternoon.
05-20-2015, 10:28 AM
#95
Three Wheelin'
It's the bit where the harness is attached to the block/bellhousing that looks tricky to me... when I removed the AOS and turbo I loosened the bolt for the p-clip (can't remember why!), and having replaced the AOS I found that I couldn't even do the bolt back up. Did you guys have trouble with that? Maybe I just didn't figure out the right way to approach it.
I've replaced the injector connectors and so far so good - will take another test drive this afternoon.
I've replaced the injector connectors and so far so good - will take another test drive this afternoon.
Still, as long as you attached the new connectors to good clean wire you are probably fine with the repair you did. The wiring through the firewall and down to the DME doesn't get that bad.
05-20-2015, 10:50 AM
#96
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You're right, I was thinking that I would have to remove the harness from where it's pinned at the back of the block. Don't all the wires to the DME get bundled together in that that rubber-concertina-sleeved bunch of wires?
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
05-20-2015, 10:54 AM
#97
Three Wheelin'
You're right, I was thinking that I would have to remove the harness from where it's pinned at the back of the block. Don't all the wires to the DME get bundled together in that that rubber-concertina-sleeved bunch of wires?
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
05-20-2015, 08:37 PM
#98
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To get the wires through the firewall, once you've made the hole in the rubber grommet, push a short plastic tube through. Then pass the wires through that, and pull the tube through from the inside and remove it. You can use the same trick to get them through the tough rubber seals that go around all the wires where they go into the DME/KLR connectors. I used a ball point pen tube with the tapered end cut off. They wouldn't all fit through at once, but you can do them one at a time this way without damaging anything.
05-20-2015, 08:41 PM
#99
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You're right, I was thinking that I would have to remove the harness from where it's pinned at the back of the block. Don't all the wires to the DME get bundled together in that that rubber-concertina-sleeved bunch of wires?
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
But I guess even of it would be tricky to replace the injector harness exactly as it was before, just running it alongside the other wires in that part of the engine bay would work fine.
05-21-2015, 04:30 PM
#100
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Now this is getting annoying again...
On a short trip this evening:
• the engine died several times
• on trying to restart without fiddling with anything, the engine cranked but did not catch, as before
• when it restarted (can't say what did the trick, but I fiddled with the DME connector, injector leads, AFM and TPS connectors) it seemed to die *immediately* - almost as if the ignition was turned off as soon as the engine fired. This is different to its behaviour before, when it tended to run for a a minute or two before dying.
• disconnecting the TPS made no difference
• when I did get the engine started and running, and able to drive home (in two stints, interrupted by another engine pause) it was possibly because I revved the engine as soon as it started, and kept the revs up.
• before it died during my drive back the engine stumbled and backfired (smaller pops rather than huge bangs) several times in quick succession
It seemed fine yesterday (maybe I was just lucky), and I haven't done anything since then other than put the plastic cover back on the injector rail.
On a short trip this evening:
• the engine died several times
• on trying to restart without fiddling with anything, the engine cranked but did not catch, as before
• when it restarted (can't say what did the trick, but I fiddled with the DME connector, injector leads, AFM and TPS connectors) it seemed to die *immediately* - almost as if the ignition was turned off as soon as the engine fired. This is different to its behaviour before, when it tended to run for a a minute or two before dying.
• disconnecting the TPS made no difference
• when I did get the engine started and running, and able to drive home (in two stints, interrupted by another engine pause) it was possibly because I revved the engine as soon as it started, and kept the revs up.
• before it died during my drive back the engine stumbled and backfired (smaller pops rather than huge bangs) several times in quick succession
It seemed fine yesterday (maybe I was just lucky), and I haven't done anything since then other than put the plastic cover back on the injector rail.
05-21-2015, 07:21 PM
#102
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Thread Starter
Well it does feel is if I've awoken some kind of kraken of electrical hassle…
Think my first step in this next skirmish will be replacing the TPS and AFM connectors, and having another look at the DME.
Think my first step in this next skirmish will be replacing the TPS and AFM connectors, and having another look at the DME.
05-21-2015, 08:02 PM
#103
...so I turned my attention to the DME. Cleaned the contacts (there was some corrosion/salts, possibly copper going by the blue colour, at one end of the the two rows of connectors on the DME), sprayed contact cleaner on the multiway connector, and opened up the DME to take a look. No obvious corrosion, damage or cracks, but I sprayed the circuit boards with contact cleaner anyway (there were some brownish deposits) and brushed them clean.
On reconnecting the DME things seem much, much better. Started first time, ran OK, and started again several times after shutting off the ignition. I even ventured a quick ride around the block, and it made it OK. It did, however, die once - so I haven't solved the problem, but feel I'm getting closer.
One other small thing: when the engine is running it's doing a slightly odd thing at low throttle. Idle is smooth, and if I open the throttle up to above 2,500 rpm it's smooth. But in between it seems to suffer a slight dip in revs every 4 to 5 seconds. I'm not going to worry about that too much until the basic starting and running thing is sorted.
On reconnecting the DME things seem much, much better. Started first time, ran OK, and started again several times after shutting off the ignition. I even ventured a quick ride around the block, and it made it OK. It did, however, die once - so I haven't solved the problem, but feel I'm getting closer.
One other small thing: when the engine is running it's doing a slightly odd thing at low throttle. Idle is smooth, and if I open the throttle up to above 2,500 rpm it's smooth. But in between it seems to suffer a slight dip in revs every 4 to 5 seconds. I'm not going to worry about that too much until the basic starting and running thing is sorted.
Here are some pics of one my recent harness rebuilds, if you look close there are 2 grounds that come out were the speed and referance connectors are along with the oxy sensor.
Intermittant electrical problems are a pain but the best thing you can do is test and test again and be ready to test again when the car dies and fails to restart.
Last edited by jeffro951; 05-26-2015 at 01:45 AM.
05-21-2015, 08:17 PM
#105
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Nice work! Did you make that up from scratch, or take an existing wiring loom and refresh it with new ends, sleeving etc? The thought of trying to make new harnesses myself did cross my mind - I mean, it's just wire, connectors, braided sleeving and some time, right? And it has to be easier to make all the ends up neatly if you do the work indoors rather than on the street.
Yeah, re-testing everything is probably smart. But I'm sure the speed and ref sensors are good - I replaced those, along with the ignition coil, in a fit of desperation earlier in this whole saga. Of course the wiring all the way back to the DME might not be so good... but I've been seeing tach bounce all the way, so I think that's one of the less likely culprits.
Yeah, re-testing everything is probably smart. But I'm sure the speed and ref sensors are good - I replaced those, along with the ignition coil, in a fit of desperation earlier in this whole saga. Of course the wiring all the way back to the DME might not be so good... but I've been seeing tach bounce all the way, so I think that's one of the less likely culprits.