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Alusil Cylinder, how should it look?

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Old 03-03-2015, 02:13 PM
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blade7
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Originally Posted by Voith
Porsche used the same workshop manual clearances on 951 that has forged mahle pistons with same piston material & coating. Considering that and few mm wider piston, I think. 050 should be good.

There are few threads here about that.
I'm not saying you're wrong, just personally I'd have the clearance set at the limit when using this block, and I'd like a bigger oil cooler.
Old 03-03-2015, 02:36 PM
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Voith
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I have 968 oil filter housing and cooler, this should work, if not Ill just buy a bigger setrab cooler.

I hope set clearance will work ok since it does look a bit tight. I had block in car trunk on ~0C and pistons indoor near heater and had to wait for temperature to equalise in order to fit the piston in cyl.
Old 03-04-2015, 12:54 PM
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kev951
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alusil bores should look dull, with almost no crosshatching visible.. not shiney .. or crosshatched like a steel block...
Old 03-05-2015, 09:09 AM
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I managed to take a more detailed picture of surface, it is made of really tiny scratches, not like crosshatch on steel blocks, much smaller.





Old 03-05-2015, 04:08 PM
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kev951
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looks correct.. has the dullness I mentioned
Old 03-05-2015, 04:44 PM
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Thanks, Looks like hey got it right this time.

Last edited by Voith; 03-05-2015 at 05:21 PM.
Old 03-05-2015, 07:15 PM
  #22  
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you can't trust anyone.. you must to learn to do these checks on your own.. did they get your connecting rod side clearance correct... did the get your piston to wall clearance correct.. did they get your ring end gap and thrust bearing clearance correct.. these must be checked with your own eyes.. if you don't know, learn or have an expert teach you.. pay the price now.. instead of paying big-time later
Old 03-06-2015, 07:42 AM
  #23  
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I don't. I paid few very expensive engineering lessons by letting people do stuff I should of done, so now I buy every tool I can and just do it myself. If it fails at least I can blame myself.

But with jobs like boring and honing block, there is no home solution. I searched for a shop that know what alusil is for more than a year and when I found it(in another country), they destroyed first block, so I had to find another which I found in yet another country. Basically this engine block ordeal of mine involves 4 countries.

This is the second one so I want to make sure somehow, it is done right.

Im on a search for bore gauge, but until I find it, I tried to stuff 0.09mm piece of paper between piston skirt and cylinder (when both are same temp) and it wont go trough, so clearance is less than .09mm.

I have carillo style rods that should clear the block even tough it is 2.7 without extra clearance.

What are the thoughts on piston squirters?

I think I will pass on those, there are a lot of overboosted 951s doing just fine without them, I dont think it is worth the extra risk of ruining the block in another ignorant shop.
Old 03-06-2015, 11:03 AM
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all you need are snap gages (telescpoping gage set) for bores and a good mic set.. measure the piston.. measure the bore.. subtract... = wall clearance.. you need to measure the bores at 3 places .. using new tools at first will give you erratic results.. until you get used to them.
Old 03-06-2015, 11:04 AM
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is this a dedicated full race / high rev motor?
Old 03-07-2015, 05:48 AM
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This will for the most part live at low revs as I will use it as second street car, but with occasional track day here and there.

I have removed the crankcase steel plates to allow cylinder outer surface oil cooling.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by kev951
all you need are snap gages (telescpoping gage set) for bores and a good mic set.. measure the piston.. measure the bore.. subtract... = wall clearance.. you need to measure the bores at 3 places .. using new tools at first will give you erratic results.. until you get used to them.
I've got a set of snap gauges and an engineering background, you must have calibrated hands if you can consistently match a dial bore gauge to 0.0005" using them.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Voith

I have removed the crankcase steel plates to allow cylinder outer surface oil cooling.
I've wondered about this but don't recall reading about anyone doing it.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:21 AM
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I remember seeing it in documentation of one jme (i think) built 3.0 that was on ebay few years ago. It makes sense.
Old 03-07-2015, 09:59 AM
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Why did Porsche design that into the 2.7/S2 block though ? Re the squirters someone in the know told me the only reason Porsche fit them is to provide extra oil to the cylinder wall in case the engine is used hard before it is up to full temp.


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