SummitP

So I bought a complete maf+ kit from John with siemens 72# injectors, and the map sensor. Install was pretty straightforward. Only thing I am wrestling with is getting the piping to clear the headlight mechanism, AND still allow the hood to close.

Initial impressions, the car came right to life after I finally put the fuel pump fuse back in. It idles smoothly with an occasional dip, like every 5-10 seconds or so, but seems smoother than it was before.
I drove the car to work today for the first time, and throttle response is noticeably better. I can also hear the bypass valve releasing back into the intake much more noticeably. Turbo spoolup is louder, and comes on quicker. The car is much smoother moving into boost, and the sluggish feeling at low to mid rpm is gone.

I have only run the car up to about 9psi, as I still need to get my wideband welded in, but the car feels good, and I am looking foward to more power.
John was very helpful and answered all of my questions (didn't have too many) with same day emails.

I will update this thread once I get the WB in and start turning up the boost a little.

azbanks

I cut off the support bracket from the rear of the light and cut an angled section from the mount for the linkage.

You can see the the changes in this picture.

fast951

SummitP, Thank you for the feedback, glad you like the kit. I'm surprised with the weather/snow you are able to drive the 951. BTW you have 80# injectors not 72#.

It's a tight fit under the hood. Using a reducer hose to match your turbo makes it harder. Shortening the reducer hose a bit may help give you the extra room.

It's always a good practice to reset idle once you switch to a MAF setup. The shop manual, Clark-s Garage as well as a few other sources has a good writeup on the procedure. If you haven't done it yet, I recommend you reset idle. It only takes a few minutes.

Drop me a note if you have any questions.

SummitP

Ha, yeah, well it started snowing again today, but before today, pretty much everyday has been nice. Now the car goes away for a while.
Regarding my idle, I rebuilt my throttle body with the arnworx kit, and used the stiffer seals, and supposedly the seals take a little while to break in properly so that the throttle will close all the way. It's been getting better. I will go back in and reset the idle here one of these days after the snow stops flying.
Thanks for the support.

SummitP

Drove the car again today, (got most of the snow and ice off of the driveway, it is nice and sunny in the valley). I have my wideband installed, and have my boost set about .9kg/cm2 or just under 13psi with the avcr. I am seeing afr in the neighborhood of 11.1-11.3 under boost. Need to get a passenger with me to help me watch it more closely and do some runs. Car is running smoothly and I am not noticing any knock, (I don't have a counter installed, another project down the road I suppose) and those AFRs look ok to me, is that right? If I continue to up the boost a bit more up to around 15 or 16 psi, what AFR do I want to look for? About the same? Low 11's high 10's? Or is that too rich? My FQS is set to 0, and my fuel setting on the maf chip is set to 91 octane (which is what passes for gas in the great state of Utah.)

kev951

Hey John, Hopefully in the next few months my car will actually be complete :P.... Frikin Tesla... owning me and $hit.. for rennlisters unaware of Vitesse or John, he provides FIRST CLASS service and hardware/software.

raleighBahn

Hey Summit, very cool. Regarding knock detection, you could build the blink code tester (http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/BLINKCODE.html) and test your car after runs (while it is still on - codes are not stored).

Tom M'Guinn

You'll be "ok" at low 11's, though high 10's is really too much. Shoot for 12 or just under at that boost level. If you turn the boost up, I'd shoot for 11.8 or even a tad richer. If you are seeing high 10's, you might double check for vacuum leaks and poor grounds before altering the fuel, as John's maps normally produce a darn good fuel curve if everything else is up to snuff... (i.e., you don't want to alter his maps just to mask some other issue...)

Oh, and check out V-Knock for knock monitoring.

SummitP

I just ran out for "lunch" with a buddy, and did some monitoring of the afr and boost levels. We got boost up to about 1.1kg/cm2 (15.6 psi). Under full throttle and boost, we were seeing afrs of 11.4 11.5 or so pretty consistently across 3rd and 4th gear. Tough to do a 5th gear run on public streets.

Car ran very smooth, had good power, and boost was steady. The more I use the AVCR, the more I like it. I am starting to worry about the longevity of my bypass valve. I still have a stock one, and I imagine that at these boost levels it may not be long for the world. I don't have any vacuum leaks, redid every single vacuum line, hose, hose clamp, etc....

That little code reader looks simple. I am going to do that.

SummitP

Quick video of today's test drive. Boost by the end was set at 1.1kgcm2, or about 15.5psi. Car is running well, and to my untrained self, feels exceptionally smooth.
Afrs hovered at 11.4 11.5 under full boost through 6k rpm.

Tom M'Guinn

That "turkey gobble" sound as you shift sounds like a bad bypass valve. When the bypass valve doesn't open (because it's broken or because you don't have a good vacuum line to it) the air buffets against the turbo and makes that noise. It's not good for the turbo, and can cause leaks, so definitely worth fixing.

fast951

Hey Kev, You'll have your car complete in no time. I hate it when work gets in the way of completing the fun projects LOL.

fast951

Under boost you want to be in the 11.5-11.8:1 AFRs. Your AFRs look good, enjoy your car.

fast951

Reading Knock after the fact (via a knock counter or the test reader), just tells you there was knock.
In my opinion, being warned at the time knock occurs is much more valuable. A visual warning gives you a chance to react.
Check out V-Knock.