Jay Wellwood

So, I've read a number of threads here. Not sure that I've really learned what I needed to - yet.

I've had this '968 turbo project' for over a decade now! Life has gotten in the way from time to time, but now it appears I can truly focus on completing what I started back in 200.

My desire is a street-able, decent power vehicle with reliability. What would you offer?

V-bands (nice feature!) are new since I started this project as is Rogue Tuning. A number of really good improvements have come along.

What would you do recommend/incorporate if you had to do a 3 liter Turbo? If you've done one, is there something you would do differently now in hindsight?

rude944

I'm in process, it's been a year in total, and have a running 2.5 in the 968. 3.0 is longer term and I have a parts shelf already accumulating there.

There are a few pitfalls, it gets a bit compressed for space around the pre turbo intake. Getting the water crossover pipe and expansion tank clear is a concern, with the AC in the way and yeah... It's tight right there. Beyond sorting out plumbing, it's not difficult to accomplish, 4 wires is all the electrical needs to start it up. The parts to do it with are intuitive if you've been around these cars long enough, and everything is available (as well as somewhat cheap), you can do this with minimal aftermarket support if desired.

I have yet to complete my exhaust and the bodywork... Hood latches, front bumper and intercooler (951 type) ducting... But overall, it's fun and I'm still enjoying it.

Like I said, if you've been around these cars a while, it should be fairly straight across. The fun part is making it what you know it should be, with TiAl wastegates and M030 brakes and koni things. The 968 just makes a more livable modern interpretation of the chassis, I love it.

I've got a build thread over on the 968 forum, under "Can I turbocharge sydneymans NA?" To see how it gets hacked apart in the front.

boost feen

Very fun projects for sure, just remember if it was originally on the 968 and your putting a turbo 944 engine in it then you have to use everything 951. Like fuel lines, A/C lines, Torque tube, clutch parts, water lines, electrics......

That said most of the very late 951 stuff crosses over to the 968 chassis perfect and there are only a few things like intercooler placement, intercooler pipes, hood latches, that get in the way.

Its always best to go OEM parts and factory replica as close as you can get because they already thought everything through and tried and tested it so if they did it that way there was a damn good reason.

Jay Wellwood

Thanks guys.

The cross over of 951 to 968 is a great piece of advice. Electrical cross over has proven to be a bit of a challenge.

For this build, I'm using the 8v head approach and have the 951 setup from the flywheel aft to the transmission. Still need to locate/install an LSD as I'm concerned about reactive effort.

Based on my reading so far, it would appear that the GT35 series is a marked improvement from the original K series.

Other improvements?

Jay Wellwood

Also...since the platforms are so similar - will the 951 exhaust readily mount to the 968?

rude944

Well, no... the 951 exhaust will be routed much the same, but the tip/outlet is a bit funky, compared to the 951. This will no doubt need to be custom (or welded up from stockers, not that I'd suggest it) but I think that Albert Broadfoot has the jug to make them for about what it costs to weld it all up, and if you like shiny things, he will polish it too.

I used a test pipe and am combining that with a custom "cat-back" from Vibrant in stainless 3". I also kept the stock 951 cat to make emissions when necessary, so keeping it close to stock is convenient.

The electrics, while a bit frustrating initially, have actually been fine. Boostfeen was really helpful in sorting that and my 2.5 968T has since been a runner without issue, and I think the only other connections left are for water temp and water idiot light as well as the oil level sending unit. AC might be a bit of trouble in the future, I live in a cooler climate and don't much mind dropping the weight.

I've got my eye on M-tune with the 2.7 head with a K27 7200 and #8 clipped. Tial F38, stock intercooler, with good plumbing. Koni/m030 sways all around and m030 brakes in front. I'll keep the 6 speed and have a 951 5speed as backup to get LSD in the 6. 3 sets of rims, all factory: 16" Phonies for traction, 17" street tires on cup1s and 18" turbo twists with fancy rubber. 90% of those parts are collected and ready to be installed.

The fact that you've been wanting to do this for a decade resonates with me. I've had this a goal since 2001. Let me know where I can help if you start.

Jay Wellwood

Thanks Rude. Sent you a PM.

I started this project back in 2004!

A few pics from the engine assembly from 2010!

rude944

What'd you use for Pistons? Was the block bored oversized?

Jay Wellwood

Used a set of Mahle 10.4.5mm specifically for the turbo application. Don't recall who I got them from now. Had Duffin Machine Shop in San Antonio handle the machine work.

boost feen

My first 3 liter turbo was low budget went with fly cut S2 pistons, 2.7 head, mostly stock 951 turbo stuff, guru chip, modified k26/8 with cheater comp/turb wheels. It had 325hp 335tq at wheels.

Next 2 of the 3 liters I built both had custom pistons for 8 to 1 compression with 2.7 head, lots of lindsey products like big exhaust, improved intake flow, super 61 #10 turbos, and custom tuning. They both had over 400HP with full 16psi bye 3000rpm an lots of useable pre boost torque.

Funny though when racing pumped up 2.5 liter 951 lightweight cars with a 968 turbo car the 3 liter wins of the line bye about 1 1/2 car lengths but after about 100 mph the lighter 2.5 951 cars always pass you and steadily gain until 150mph

Jay Wellwood

Maybe it's that 3rd gear ratio in the 5 speed vs the 6 speed?