Catch cans and crank pressure
#211
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Thread Starter
The new turbo is awesome. Backpressure is down to 1.5:1, with 1 bar at 3000 still. Seat of the pants is night and day, but that may be in part because the old hot side was looking bad when I removed it, so I was probably gradually losing power over the years as it got worse and worse. The feel of the car is back now though, with a vengeance...
#212
What turbo setup are you running Tom?
I do plan to give that a try. Since the dip stick was popping up when I was using the AOS side port and cam tower, I suspect the cam tower is not a great pressure vent anyway. There must be meaningful air flow restrictions to the cam tower when the lower crankcase area gets pressurized. I think my car throws off a bit more oil than others, but the AOS can handle that for sure. The only question is whether the AOS alone can vent enough air to keep the dipstick in place. Fingers crossed.
The new turbo is awesome. Backpressure is down to 1.5:1, with 1 bar at 3000 still. Seat of the pants is night and day, but that may be in part because the old hot side was looking bad when I removed it, so I was probably gradually losing power over the years as it got worse and worse. The feel of the car is back now though, with a vengeance...
The new turbo is awesome. Backpressure is down to 1.5:1, with 1 bar at 3000 still. Seat of the pants is night and day, but that may be in part because the old hot side was looking bad when I removed it, so I was probably gradually losing power over the years as it got worse and worse. The feel of the car is back now though, with a vengeance...
#213
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Thread Starter
#214
Sorry to bring up an older thread, but I'm finally getting around to addressing my lack of vacuum through the AOS since I installed my M-Tune a few months back.
I have the issue of my turbo not draining efficiently at idle with this lack of vacuum, thus smoking when idling after a decent pull or simply after driving around for several minutes.
I've been trying to think of the simplest solution, and then I thought of the following:
If I was to use the later style AOS-to-intake hose on my '86 (pictured below, from Lindsey Racing), would it be possible to run a vacuum from the intake manifold through a check valve, restrictor, and PCV, straight into the port on the AOS hose originally used for the pressure vent (plus a check valve towards the MAF tree so it doesn't suck air in through there)? That vent port would still technically be functioning as it was designed to do, along with all flow through the AOS, but it would simply be exaggerated by having a light vacuum running through the vent port.
Would there be any downside to this that I'm missing? Guessing I would still ideally need a catch can (really trying not to run one to keep it less cluttered under the hood)?
I have the issue of my turbo not draining efficiently at idle with this lack of vacuum, thus smoking when idling after a decent pull or simply after driving around for several minutes.
I've been trying to think of the simplest solution, and then I thought of the following:
If I was to use the later style AOS-to-intake hose on my '86 (pictured below, from Lindsey Racing), would it be possible to run a vacuum from the intake manifold through a check valve, restrictor, and PCV, straight into the port on the AOS hose originally used for the pressure vent (plus a check valve towards the MAF tree so it doesn't suck air in through there)? That vent port would still technically be functioning as it was designed to do, along with all flow through the AOS, but it would simply be exaggerated by having a light vacuum running through the vent port.
Would there be any downside to this that I'm missing? Guessing I would still ideally need a catch can (really trying not to run one to keep it less cluttered under the hood)?
Last edited by guards951; 01-12-2016 at 04:25 PM.
#215
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Thread Starter
What turbo are you running? Are you sure you don't just need a restrictor at the oil inlet? Did this start when you added m-tune, with no other changes?
If I understand your idea, I'm not sure how much vacuum you'd get in the crankcase since you'd be t'ing into a line that is essentially open to atmosphere at the other end -- or am I misunderstanding your idea?
If I understand your idea, I'm not sure how much vacuum you'd get in the crankcase since you'd be t'ing into a line that is essentially open to atmosphere at the other end -- or am I misunderstanding your idea?
#216
What turbo are you running? Are you sure you don't just need a restrictor at the oil inlet? Did this start when you added m-tune, with no other changes?
If I understand your idea, I'm not sure how much vacuum you'd get in the crankcase since you'd be t'ing into a line that is essentially open to atmosphere at the other end -- or am I misunderstanding your idea?
If I understand your idea, I'm not sure how much vacuum you'd get in the crankcase since you'd be t'ing into a line that is essentially open to atmosphere at the other end -- or am I misunderstanding your idea?
The idea is to use the vent port on that AOS hose (where the little black plastic pressure relief valve normally goes in) as the 'tee' for an intake manifold vacuum to go in. So the port would no longer go to the atmosphere, but to a light IM vacuum source (after a restrictor and whatnot).
#217
I've pondered and farted around with this whole crankcase vent issue; and over time I've come up with a simple solution.
Replace the oil filler cap with a cut piece of foam to fit into the oil filler opening. Cap off the port from the AOS to the turbo compressor. You now have an independant crankcase vent to atmosphere, where you leave the oil filler cap off, and the crankcase vents through a huge opening (the oil filler neck), but the foam traps the oil vapour. Any crankcase pressure escapes instantly and the intake track, including IC, remains squeeky clean (catch cans still let oil through, somewhat)
I'm all about function before form.
Is it redneck; yes.
Is it effective; very
Replace the oil filler cap with a cut piece of foam to fit into the oil filler opening. Cap off the port from the AOS to the turbo compressor. You now have an independant crankcase vent to atmosphere, where you leave the oil filler cap off, and the crankcase vents through a huge opening (the oil filler neck), but the foam traps the oil vapour. Any crankcase pressure escapes instantly and the intake track, including IC, remains squeeky clean (catch cans still let oil through, somewhat)
I'm all about function before form.
Is it redneck; yes.
Is it effective; very
Are you still running with this arrangement? I too am a "function over form" guy looking to eliminate positive crankcase pressure under boost. This seems too good to be true, compared to the more elaborate arrangements used by many others.
Roger
#218
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I have to say, after all my whacky ideas, I finally had the chance to drill the AOS (while changing turbos) and that solved all issues for me.
#219
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Has anyone considered a crankcase vacuum pump? These have been used successfully in race engines for years. At first to prevent pan gaskets from being blown out. Then progressing to deal with blow by from blowers, turbos, nitrous, low friction rings, etc. Crancase vacuum pumps have also proven to increase horsepower by increasing the piston ring seal.
#220
Rainman
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been reading through this thread and others on the topic and other folks' measured crank pressure even under heavy boost go from 3 psi crankcase at 17psi boost and 8 psi at 23.
#221
have you measured any crank pressure or just think it might be there based on some symptoms you've seen?
been reading through this thread and others on the topic and other folks' measured crank pressure even under heavy boost go from 3 psi crankcase at 17psi boost and 8 psi at 23.
been reading through this thread and others on the topic and other folks' measured crank pressure even under heavy boost go from 3 psi crankcase at 17psi boost and 8 psi at 23.
My front crankshaft seal started leaking, so I am going through the process of replacing everything on the front of the engine. I want to make sure I reduce the crankcase pressure so that I don't wind up blowing any of these seals out after I replace them. I'm leaning towards simply popping a little air filter on top of the oil fill tube and plugging the line going to the j-boot. I don't care about emissions, or if I smell fumes sitting in traffic (it's becoming a DE car primarily).
Roger
#223
#224
Rainman
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you should *only* drill the AOS if fitting a catch-can+breather tank combo.
drilling the AOS will drop the AOS's efficiency to the point where it can no longer S the A and O...
at that point you are using the "AOS carcass" to merely contain your oil leak, and relying on the catch can to remove oil vapor and the breather option to drop crankcase pressure.
drilling the AOS will drop the AOS's efficiency to the point where it can no longer S the A and O...
at that point you are using the "AOS carcass" to merely contain your oil leak, and relying on the catch can to remove oil vapor and the breather option to drop crankcase pressure.
#225
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
you should *only* drill the AOS if fitting a catch-can+breather tank combo.
drilling the AOS will drop the AOS's efficiency to the point where it can no longer S the A and O...
at that point you are using the "AOS carcass" to merely contain your oil leak, and relying on the catch can to remove oil vapor and the breather option to drop crankcase pressure.
drilling the AOS will drop the AOS's efficiency to the point where it can no longer S the A and O...
at that point you are using the "AOS carcass" to merely contain your oil leak, and relying on the catch can to remove oil vapor and the breather option to drop crankcase pressure.