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Exhaust Leak at header-to-crossover; used new crush rings
Hey everyone, I've got a question. I recently replaced my crossover because it had developed a crack. I ordered 3 crush rings as well as the crush donut that seals the wastegate to the crossover. The crush ring on the turbo sealed up fine, as did the wastegate, but my exhaust it now leaking at the two flanges where the header meets the crossover. I checked the flanges with a straight edge before installing so it isnt that they are warped. I did have a hard time getting a few of the 6 bolts as tight as I would have liked because I had to use a universal joint for, I think two of them, and before I would really torque them down the universal kept allowing the socket to pop off. What do you guys suggest? I'm hoping that even though I still got them "pretty tight", that applying some additional torque to the bolts now that they've heat cycled a few times will seal up any leaks. I'm not even too sure where around the flanges its leaking from, I can distinctly hear that its coming from someplace above the wastegate, and since I didnt touch the headers I have to assume its coming from the crossover flanges. With the car overnight cold, I went under it and cranked the car and tried to feel around for leaking exhaust but I still couldn't really pinpoint where It was coming from. I'd hate to pull the headers and try to reseal it again.
Perhaps try loosening the mounting nuts and tightening in a different sequence? Possibly getting one component pulling on another section of the pipe causing it to not seal up cirrectly
Shoot...I hope I didnt screw myself already. I torqued up the 4 nuts on the turbo before I torqued up the 6 at the headers...and I'm damn sure not pulling it apart again to be able to get at and loosen the turbo-crossover nuts. Hopefully loosening the 6 at the headers up and trying again will seal it up.
I just replaced my crossover too. I tightened the bolts to turbo first, then the six at the headers, then crossover flange (I have the Lindsey two piece). Did the wastegate stuff last. I believe ther is a write up on the best sequence. I think if you just loosen up everything and tighten in the above sequence you will be fine
I use a swivel head ratchet to tighten the six bolts.
As long as you tightened the turbo first your in good shape.
+1 on above tightening sequence. I also had to use some of Lindsey's copper washers. In fact, I use the copper washers at every joint on my header/crossover now - the only way I was able to seal everything up properly.
+1 on above tightening sequence. I also had to use some of Lindsey's copper washers. In fact, I use the copper washers at every joint on my header/crossover now - the only way I was able to seal everything up properly.
What washers are you referring to? linky? Yeah guys the turbo was torqued up first, and is leak free, as is the wastegate. just need to seal up the header connections, and I'd prefer to do it without having to remove the crossover again or the headers.
They look very similar to these...I have for my 16v engine, wonder if they are the same, and I was meant/able to use them on the 8v headers in place of those LR copper ones?
Edit: Turns out the silver gaskets pictured above do indeed only fit N/A cars, though they appear to fit both 8 and 16v headers. The diameter of the bolt pattern on the turbo headers is slightly larger by a few mm's so they wont fit a 951 crossover pipe. The LR ones are basically the same thing, just sized to fit a turbo application so it seems, as well as having the benefit of being reusable.
Just a little more info. When you start to tighten the six bolts from header to crossover, tighten all the bolts a little bit at a time in a cross pattern. Kind of like you would do on wheel lug nuts. I usually make about three passes torquing a little more each time. After its good and tight, move to the two piece crossover flange (if you have one) and tighten the same way. Make about three passes. continue this with the rest of the connection. If you do this, you should get a good seal without having to use additional gaskets.
Also, with all the bolts just in a couple of threads, make sure and get the bolt that holds the wastegate bracket to the frame started too otherwise you wont be able to get it in.