fiily

Thoughts or opinions on this for replacing the 26/6? Not water cooled, so it requires rerouting water lines, but is this a decent upgrade or should I look elsewhere?

New T3 / T04E / K26 #6 Hybrid Turbo with:

.57 trim compressor wheel
Stage III turbine wheel
Supports up to 390 HP
Oil/Air Cooled, 360 degree Journal Bearing CHRA.

(Bolts right up to stock 951 exhaust up and down pipes, boot modification needed for 3" inlet)

blade7

Depends where it came from and what it's made out of to an extent.

User 52121

Slightly different... but for what it's worth, I have a T04E 50-trim, with a basic -8 replica hotside... and it is AWESOME for a street car IMO.

Zeff

57 and 50 trims are really good for the 951. Both can hit around 350rwhp with exhaust, wg, and maf/fuel.

What spec is the hotside?

fiily

From what he has I am thinking it's the #6 hotside.

I have the vitesse maf kit, 55# injectors, 3bar fpr, vitesse chipset, and sfr's 2.5" intercooler pipes waiting patiently at home.

I am hoping to lay some decent HP to the rear wheels @ 18psi, but I still need to decide on the turbo, wg, manual or electronic boost controller, and a decent wide band.

I have a dansk cat-back exhaust already, I don't know if I am ready to pull the complete exhaust and do that upgrade yet.

Dougs951S

personally if I was doing a smallish T04, I'd be looking for a 50 trim since it'll make nearly the same power on pump fuel while spooling up faster and having a lower boost threshhold and improved transient response. Also I would not run any T04/T3 with a #6 hotside.

fiily

I'll check with them to see is they would offer the same specs with a #8 hotside, if so I'll take the bait!

If I am staying stock with the porsche downpipe and the pre-cat exhaust, does having the #6 hotside really hurt the hp at high rpm's due to the backpressure? I would think my stock downpipe and stock pre-cat exhaust is the culprit for power loss at higher rpm's due to not allowing enough air volume to escape fast enough.

Dougs951S

The stock DP and exhaust are restrictive, but the hotside is more-so.

SamGrant951

I run a T04E 57 trim (dry / oil only) with an 8 hotside - I have been quite happy with it.

fiily

Do you mind if I ask, did you just plug or reroute the coolant line to the turbo water pump, what other gotcha's are involved with running a dry setup, coolant lines etc etc..

Pictures are always appreciated

SamGrant951

I can take any picture you want, here is an older one from when it first went together. Deleted any coolant lines not needed and running an n/a coolant tank and a block off plate on the water pump.

fiily

N/A coolant reservoir, that saves me over $200 to replace my yellowed turbo one with a new n/a one, sounds good so far.

Did you have to do anything on the metal coolant tube in front of the radiator, or just installed the block off plate and cap the metal line there?

So many questions now.

You setup is pretty much what I would like to see on mine. Any dyno specs? Do you have a build thread on rennlist/pelican I can inform myself with?

SamGrant951

We pulled out anything that was no longer in use so all metal coolant lines gone. Think it did a best of 380/430 at 24-25 psi on a dynojet and was still making power. I run it at 17-18psi around town, prob 310-320rwhp. Oh and I think I am 6+ years now on this turbo with no issues (built by Bob @ Turbo-performance).

fiily

Great results! Anything you can pm me would be greatly appreciated. Picture are always great, visuals help more than words for me.

Thanks again.

Dougs951S

All metal lines get deleted except the large metal line connecting the radiator outlet to the water neck on the front of the head. Then you use an N/A coolant tank along with a hose from a LATE N/A to go from the coolant tank to the small port on the radiator just above the radiator inlet from the water pump. Then you get the N/A block off plate for the water pump along with a new O-ring for it, and thats basically it. Total cost to convert for me was ~50 bucks.