Bypassing idle control valve
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Any issues with bypassing the idle control valve? I've been having a difficult time tuning due to this, replacing and testing anything associated with start up and idle. I removed the ICV cleaned and tested it finding it functions as it should and with no leaks. When I re-installed same issue...
I completely bypassed the ICV and after a good warm up the idle is steady and AFR's are consistently within range 14.4-14.9.
Aside from the start up problem without the ICV, is there a negative to running without it?
Thanks!
I will be replacing the ICV, just wondered if running it without it would create any issue.
I completely bypassed the ICV and after a good warm up the idle is steady and AFR's are consistently within range 14.4-14.9.
Aside from the start up problem without the ICV, is there a negative to running without it?
Thanks!
I will be replacing the ICV, just wondered if running it without it would create any issue.
Last edited by Fluidplay; 12-08-2014 at 03:03 PM.
#2
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I currently do not have an ICV, it died this summer and I just plugged the hose. I live in Montreal and when the cold morning started, in the fall, the car was having difficulty at startup. In California you'll probably be fine.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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No, removed all the AC stuff when engine was out.
Did a cold start this morning and found the idle was much better, but still not perfect. It took until the engine was fully warmed up before it settled down and idled smoothly.
Did a cold start this morning and found the idle was much better, but still not perfect. It took until the engine was fully warmed up before it settled down and idled smoothly.
#5
Drifting
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I did the same several years ago when mine failed. I have to add a little throttle for a bit on cold starts, but no other issues (no AC, though).
#6
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I have AC (doesn't work though). How does that affect ICV function?
Actually I had AC. I just took it out this week and bought a delete kit from paragon. Does this make it better or worse?
Actually I had AC. I just took it out this week and bought a delete kit from paragon. Does this make it better or worse?
#7
Race Car
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I have no A/C or power steering to load the engine and I live in texas, been running with no ICV for over a year, though I'm on a speed-density tune with megasquirt. It runs perfect, I don't even need to give it gas when I start it, even when its 30 degrees outside. It does idle a bit low when its cold, maybe 650 rpm but by the time I get out of my neighborhood, its idling at 950. I dont even notice it when its over about 50 degrees ambient. Overall its a non issue unless you live someplace freezing and you're still running a DME, (the batch fire and less-than-perfect tune makes it less friendly to having no ISV vs a stand alone) in which case you might have to give a bit of throttle to keep it running till it warms up.
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#8
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No real downside other than the need to keep your foot on the throttle until it warms up. Chasing some issues this past fall, I disabled mine as well (and capped the hose ends) and once warm, the car has *never* idled so solidly. Once it got a lot colder out (high 40s for the day's high) I wound up putting it back in because I got sick of trying to keep it idling with my foot. I work in downtown Chicago, and leaving the parking garage at the end of the day, pulling straight into downtown city rush hour traffic in a car that didn't want to idle for the first 5 minutes or so sucked. This winter I'll pull it all apart and see if I can figure out why the ICV seems to act up at other times.
If you have A/C you'll want the ICV because it helps keep the idle up when the compressor kicks on. Without A/C, and especially in a warmer climate, you probably won't notice it's gone.
If you have A/C you'll want the ICV because it helps keep the idle up when the compressor kicks on. Without A/C, and especially in a warmer climate, you probably won't notice it's gone.