Neward P

What did you do to your car? you put new GURU wastegate or a reliaboost?

ninefiveone

Simpson, I'll be impressed if you hook up that socket as a test lamp AND install it in the proper place in the rear taillamp cluster. I'll be happy to follow you around and read the codes.

sm

I drove the car last night with the hose between the Reliaboost and wastegate disconnected. Maybe this didn't do anything, but I wanted to see if the wastegate would hold boost on it's own, and it felt like it did. I saw maybe 9 psi in third gear, which was more than the 7 psi or so that I saw with the hose attached. I am not 100% sure of this, however, as I was careful not to overboost. Did this *test* prove anything?

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My CV is disconnected. Will a this setup still allow for overboost protection and drop boost to ~7psi?

How do I test for a pooped wastegate?

And how do you connect a dual port wastegate to a MBC, such as a Reliaboost?

Should I suspect a weak spring in the Reliaboost? It has been adjusted to near max already.

sm

When I get this problem figured out, my tailamps will be the only thing you'll see


But on a serious note (I was only semi-serious above), I'm thinking about hooking an LED up to the gauge cluster for this purpose (a la Perry).

Does the testing of the codes have to be done after a drive, or can it be done on startup? I didn't see any codes come up when I performed the test right after starting the car.

toddk911

sm, if you disconnect the wastegate and run the car, should see a TON of boost. If not, wastegate is bad.

sm

I may be wrong, but isn't the stock wg spring only good for about 7 psi?

Jake951

True, but only if you don't have an intake leak somewhere. Under boost, it doesn't take much of a leak to bleed away most of your boost. As I said earlier, a small hose blowing off caused me to lose most of my boost, even though the boost controller was sending no pressure to the WG.

toddk911

Yes, correct. I was assuming he had checked for leaks. What vac are you reading on boost guage?? And if yo uare going by stock guage, that could be way off.

sm

I get about 20 whatever the units is (inches?) at idle. Is that about right?

And I did snoop around the engine bay looking for loose hoses, but didn't see any. I'll look again...

Still trying to get answers for these q's:

My CV is disconnected. Will a this setup still allow for overboost protection and drop boost to ~7psi?

How do I test for a pooped wastegate?

And how do you connect a dual port wastegate to a MBC, such as a Reliaboost?

Should I suspect a weak spring in the Reliaboost? It has been adjusted to near max already.


Thanks!

sm

I just checked the fault code reader and there are no fault codes. I checked all of the vacuum hoses (rubber and hard plastic), and everything seems fine. Oil still smells like gas and I can't get more than about 7 psi.

Well, I'm going to go change my oil now.

Seems like a new wastegate is in order?

Jake951

Do you mean it's bypassed or that you just pulled the hose going to the WG and left that hose disconnected?

Probably the surest way is to remove it and test it outside the car with a pressure source...not the easiest way, though. If you disconnect the line from the CV to the WG (pull it at the CV) as a test, then you should be able to develop maximum boost if everything else is OK.

Unlikely but it's easy to check. Carefully take the Reliaboost apart. Just unscrew the end you normally turn to adjust it, and keep unscrewing slowly until the threaded body comes out. Check for debris inside the Reliaboost and inspect the spring and ball. If everything looks OK by eye, then you don't have a problem here.

Are you absolutely certain you don't have an intake leak?

sm

The CV is bypassed. I did drive around town with the hose that's between the wastegate and Reliaboost disconnected, but things didn't change much.


I sprayed some PB Blaster on the wastegate bolts in preparation for this - or installation of a new WG.

I get about 18 in of HG at idle when the car is warmed up. However, the needle on the aftermarket gauge does move a tad bit when the idle speed moves. Idle is about 900 rpm's, but does sometimes drop to 700 rpm's.

I'm not absolutely certain that there aren't leaks, but I have checked pretty much everything.

I'm now going to pull my injectors to check for leaks (gas smell in oil - still).

Thanks for the help

Jake951

A small leak may not affect idle or even part throttle performance but will kill your boost. It's happened to me.

Also, have you tested your BOV?

Jake951

EDIT: Ignore this. Double post.

sm

I pulled the vacuum hard line off and sucked on the nipple (oh stop it ) and was able to slightly suck some air out, but it was generally difficult. The part is about 1.5 years old, and was bought from Paragon. So I assume it's the updated part...

I'm going to get one of those vacuum tester hand pump things.