3.3L Hybrid Stroker Engine Dimensions
#1
Three Wheelin'
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3.3L Hybrid Stroker Engine Build
Hey guys, been learning alot from Shawn and Sid's Hybrid stoker builds. Thinking about doing one myself as I have plenty of parts sitting around. I did some quick calculations on a 95mm offset ground 3.0 crank in a 3.0 block. (Have a full S2 motor on the stand).
Punched into the Eagle engine calculator and this is what I got.
These calculations are based on using a 2.7 head. Using the 16V head with a chamber volume of 41cc raised the compression ratio up to around 9.85. Piston used here would be a JE "4.125. (Sleeve size may be costly)
Rod ratio is less than ideal (thus rod angle), and there is still clearance left at the deck.
Looking for some more knowledgeable insight here, trying to learn as much as I can! If you guys were to base a hybrid stoker off a 3.0 block, how would you do it?
Punched into the Eagle engine calculator and this is what I got.
These calculations are based on using a 2.7 head. Using the 16V head with a chamber volume of 41cc raised the compression ratio up to around 9.85. Piston used here would be a JE "4.125. (Sleeve size may be costly)
Rod ratio is less than ideal (thus rod angle), and there is still clearance left at the deck.
Looking for some more knowledgeable insight here, trying to learn as much as I can! If you guys were to base a hybrid stoker off a 3.0 block, how would you do it?
Last edited by Will Feather; 01-05-2015 at 11:19 PM. Reason: Changed Title - will use this thread to track the progression of the motor build
#2
Race Car
Had a long reply typed and lost it.
It's pretty simple though, use flanged ductile iron sleeves. Easily available.
Either leave the piston in the hole some (my choice) in essence you are just adding to the combustion chamber volume, or try to create a piston with a deep enough dish to accommodate the low ratio. Not easy with a 16 v.
The rod ratio works fine with the limited rpm capability of this oiling sysyem.
It's pretty simple though, use flanged ductile iron sleeves. Easily available.
Either leave the piston in the hole some (my choice) in essence you are just adding to the combustion chamber volume, or try to create a piston with a deep enough dish to accommodate the low ratio. Not easy with a 16 v.
The rod ratio works fine with the limited rpm capability of this oiling sysyem.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Had a long reply typed and lost it.
It's pretty simple though, use flanged ductile iron sleeves. Easily available.
Either leave the piston in the hole some (my choice) in essence you are just adding to the combustion chamber volume, or try to create a piston with a deep enough dish to accommodate the low ratio. Not easy with a 16 v.
It's pretty simple though, use flanged ductile iron sleeves. Easily available.
Either leave the piston in the hole some (my choice) in essence you are just adding to the combustion chamber volume, or try to create a piston with a deep enough dish to accommodate the low ratio. Not easy with a 16 v.
A custom piston would be out of the question for me at least. How do guys utilize the 16V head with its chamber volume. (Excuse my ignorance, don't know what I don't know!)
I do like your idea of running 4.155 pistons, ups the displacement to 3.32 rather than 3.28.
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#9
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Non-interference will depend on the valve size. If you are using a 2.7 head, intake will be 48mm and it will be close. Definitely clay the valves to verify.
Also, I believe the standard Cometic HG is 0.04". What is the reason for the 0.030"?
Rod ratio should be a non-issue. The RR is the same as my build and it has been fine. I also talked to Harry about it and it did not believe it to be an issue.
Also, I believe the standard Cometic HG is 0.04". What is the reason for the 0.030"?
Rod ratio should be a non-issue. The RR is the same as my build and it has been fine. I also talked to Harry about it and it did not believe it to be an issue.
#10
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#11
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The manufacturer of the sleeves is really the wrong question IMO. You need to find a machinist who sleeves aluminum blocks with ductile iron sleeves on a regular basis. They are not uncommon. Then he will tell you what sleeves you need to use and he will order and install them. Finding the "right machinist" is very important.
#12
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I couldn't agree with you more. And this seems like it will be my biggest hurdle. I have contacted quite a few shops, and no one will offset grind. I have more digging to do. May have the send my crank down to you..
Anyone have any leads for a New England shop with such experience?
Anyone have any leads for a New England shop with such experience?
#13
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I couldn't agree with you more. And this seems like it will be my biggest hurdle. I have contacted quite a few shops, and no one will offset grind. I have more digging to do. May have the send my crank down to you..
Anyone have any leads for a New England shop with such experience?
Anyone have any leads for a New England shop with such experience?
Let me know if you cannot find someone and will help through my machinist. Be nice if you can find a local guy.
#14
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How do you guys feel this set up would perform utilizing a 2.7 head.
I feel the displacement may be reaching the upper efficiency of the head, would 3.3 be overkill?
I feel the displacement may be reaching the upper efficiency of the head, would 3.3 be overkill?