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A little additional information. From that rubber #4 "T" it goes into the canister near the battery and the other (orange hard plastic line) goes down and through the firewall near the heater hoses. The yellow line that's viable and connected to #2 in my picture goes through the firewall using the same penetration as the wiring harness. Is that the one that goes to the KLR? Is that what is called "charging pressure control" in the workshop diagram? What does KLR stand for? (something in German I'm sure...
See my post 12. KLR is the computer (like the DME) - it does knock and overboost protection. Forget workshop diagram - pick the right Lindsey one as they are correct and make this easy.
I changed it to public, I thought I had but apparently not!
I'm using this diagram:
The TDC crank position sensor broke and I swapped it out. Also the thermal vacuum switch which I replaced too.
I totally understand that it could have chosen that time to fail, but it's just odd that it would stop working EXACTLY the time I did the vacuum lines. The one thing I was thinking is that I also put in the Lindsey fuel lines and and it's possible something got in and plugged the FPR or maybe an injector.
I'll take another video now. Man, I was so looking forward to finally driving it too!
The way I have it plumbed now is that after the check valve (where it ends on the diagram) I'm hooked to that rubber "T" that goes to both the canister near the battery and through the firewall near the heater hoses. (does the climate control use vacuum?) I'm assuming the yellow line that follows the wiring harness is the one for the KLR then I have it all hooked up exactly as shown. (other than the "T" I mentioned)
I saw the post #12 "The yellow line goes to the KLR." which is why I asked what KLR was and what is stood for. I'm not sure what a DME is either (new to Porsche) but I'm gathering that's kinda like saying ECU?
I changed it to public, I thought I had but apparently not!
I'm using this diagram:
The TDC crank position sensor broke and I swapped it out. Also the thermal vacuum switch which I replaced too.
I totally understand that it could have chosen that time to fail, but it's just odd that it would stop working EXACTLY the time I did the vacuum lines. The one thing I was thinking is that I also put in the Lindsey fuel lines and and it's possible something got in and plugged the FPR or maybe an injector.
I'll take another video now. Man, I was so looking forward to finally driving it too!
I sympathize for sure. So use the diagram - after you check each line visually, highlight the line with a highlighter so you can forget it and move on. The box at top left represents KLR. You have clear/yellow line going from manifold to boot - check it off. The picture top middle is wastegate under your car. If you have correct port from octopus disappearing over back of engine, check it off. The picture top right is brake booster (big disc near brake fluid reservoir).
Once all lines are checked off and if it looks correct, do some real fuel and fire checks, fuel pump relay, dme relay, and etc. Clarks garage.
If you still don't find, drink heavily tonight and go buy a good mumultimeter in the morning.
I've checked them all off, over and over and over in the last 2 days. Guess I'll move on to spark and fuel. I have a multi-meter so I'm good there. Thanks for the help. Guess it will be another few weeks before it's first drive.
From Clark:
"Another way to check the operation of the speed and reference sensors it to crank the vehicle and watch the response of the tachometer. If the tachometer jumps during cranking, the speed and reference sensors are probably good. If it does not jump, it indicates a problem with the speed and/or reference sensor or the DME computer. If it's the speed and/or reference sensors, it could be a bad sensor or the clearance gap is too large (see "Adjusting Sensor Clearance")."
From Clark:
"Another way to check the operation of the speed and reference sensors it to crank the vehicle and watch the response of the tachometer. If the tachometer jumps during cranking, the speed and reference sensors are probably good. If it does not jump, it indicates a problem with the speed and/or reference sensor or the DME computer. If it's the speed and/or reference sensors, it could be a bad sensor or the clearance gap is too large (see "Adjusting Sensor Clearance")."
I checked the new one against the old and they seemed to be exactly the same length. I haven't driven this car so a steady tach seemed normal to me. Should it be "jumpy"? I could work on adjusting the sensor clearance if that seems a likely culprit. I had read that article from Clark's Garage which is why I compared lengths... just to be sure.
You mentioned replacing the original fuel lines with braided items. Is it possible that you have transposed the lines between the FPR and the Dampener?
Rob
You mentioned replacing the original fuel lines with braided items. Is it possible that you have transposed the lines between the FPR and the Dampener?
Rob
I thought about that yesterday, and double checked. The 10mm line is the feed and the 8mm is the return and that's how I hooked it up. I'll check a third time though, I'm not above that!
I pulled and double checked the crank sensor length, cleaned and reinstalled it. I also pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked to see if that would show the "jumping". Is it supposed to be bouncing around in this situation?
Last easy check before bed... pull a fuel injector wire and see if it will start and stay running. Maybe choose the one you know is marginal.
Tried that, it was worse. It's such a tease because when I hook it back up it runs perfect for about a full second and then nothing. Well, it was nice to have some things to try. Thanks guys! I'll try picking up a fuel pressure gauge, and check spark tomorrow.
Tried that, it was worse. It's such a tease because when I hook it back up it runs perfect for about a full second and then nothing. Well, it was nice to have some things to try. Thanks guys! I'll try picking up a fuel pressure gauge, and check spark tomorrow.
Hope springs eternal as long as there is something else to try i recently stripped a turbo mounting bolt and it's one of those breathe deep situations, but eventually something works.
Note that the old 44 doesn't have Schrader valve, so you need to build or order something similar to arnnworx tool. You could get a cheap noid light and other spark testing tools. It is likely too little or too much fuel, or too much air. Before you hook up the fuel gauge, pull that fuel pump fuse again and turn it over a few times, in case there is pressure on the rail.
You checked your vacuum (remember there is line under the throttle body) - check jboot connections, ic boots, and of course that everything is plugged in (afm, tps, o2, speed sensor, etc).
Hope it is easy and you don't descend into electrical madness, my least favorite.
11-03-2014, 08:28 PM
i recently stripped a turbo mounting bolt and it's one of those breathe deep situations, but eventually something works.