KW V3 installation
#1
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KW V3 installation
I've received my KW v3, and just reading though the muddled up instructions.
I've heard that i need to reindex the torsion bars but this is telling me just to undo the bolts and drop it that way.
I'm pre adjusting the rates. The rebound has 16 clicks but mine clicks 17 times until it feels like you shouldn't click any more. The compression is 12 clicks but only clicks 9-10 times. I won't want to force anything. At first it felt a little stiff but after moving it up and down to count it got looser
I've heard that i need to reindex the torsion bars but this is telling me just to undo the bolts and drop it that way.
I'm pre adjusting the rates. The rebound has 16 clicks but mine clicks 17 times until it feels like you shouldn't click any more. The compression is 12 clicks but only clicks 9-10 times. I won't want to force anything. At first it felt a little stiff but after moving it up and down to count it got looser
Last edited by Paulyy; 10-13-2014 at 03:50 AM.
#2
I hope someone out there has experience with these and is willing to share some wisdom. I am also considering v3's for my 86' 951. Trying to budget them now.
Thanks for posting this and good luck with the install.
Thanks for posting this and good luck with the install.
#3
That is not re-indexing. That adjustment is just the eccentric on the arm. Re-indexing would mean you would be pulling the entire carrier out. There is a special socket for that piece. Wheel alignment places carry that cam socket. Pelican, Vertex and Paragon and others list that socket for our cars.
Soloracer has them on his 968 and did not re-index when they were installed. Your are just adjusting the ride height to compensate for the added spring. That is my educated guess. I've re-index my car 3 times putting it back together when I did my build. You are just changing the ride height for the mw's
That is my thoughts
I hope someone else will add to this if they have experience...I am betting that I am correct on this.
Soloracer has them on his 968 and did not re-index when they were installed. Your are just adjusting the ride height to compensate for the added spring. That is my educated guess. I've re-index my car 3 times putting it back together when I did my build. You are just changing the ride height for the mw's
That is my thoughts
I hope someone else will add to this if they have experience...I am betting that I am correct on this.
#4
Drifting
Depends what ride height you want to run, I started at the front and set the spring height so the wishbones were parallel to the ground. I didn't have to re-index for the car to sit level with the rear springs just taking the weight of the car.
#6
Drifting
Pauly,
Im not sure what springs you went with but i would highly recommend getting rid of the torsion bars. that way you can change your height and rate with much more convenience in the future. T bar delete for the win.
Regards
Sean
Im not sure what springs you went with but i would highly recommend getting rid of the torsion bars. that way you can change your height and rate with much more convenience in the future. T bar delete for the win.
Regards
Sean
#7
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#9
Drifting
Maybe its hearsay but I've read of the bottom mount failing without torsion bars fitted, same with the ball joint pin pulling out or breaking on cars lowered a lot ?
#10
#12
Three Wheelin'
All the cases I've seen where the bolt broke due to fatigue, the root cause was the bolt bottoming out on the threads resulting in incorrect tension.
You must check length of engagement of the bolt before installing the coilovers. Easy job to trim the end of the bolt if required.
5 years on my torsion delete coilovers on original bolts, 850lb springs, daily driven, no problem.
Cheers,
Mike
#13
#14
Drifting
Regards
Sean