URG8RB8

Thanks Paul! Will do!

URG8RB8

KW US Tech has no knowledge of ever selling a V3 setup for TB delete. When I asked about changing the springs he did not like that either and said he would have to check with R&D. He aksed about length and diameter changes in the springs. Does anybody know if the length and diameter changes as well as the rate, or is it just a rate change? I am assuming only a rate change. I also asked about changing the springs on the rears and he described the process Sean mentioned with the nut and when I told him the nut is no longer there he sounded puzzled and again had to refer to R&D. I am not getting a good vibe here, but I will continue to poke and prod. If they don't have a good answer, I guess I will open up the wallet for the twice as expensive Moton setup, but I think highly overkill for a street only car.

JET951

Hi Paul and Eric,
Im surprised the nut is not there, Just last week we put Patricks older KW race version shocks into another customers car. Just to double check i wound down the spring and lowered the spring hat and sure enough there is a nut that once tightens holds the top eyelet assembly in place. Without this i am now unsure what holds the top assembly in place anymore. If its true and you cannot change springs without sending them back then they have lost me.

Saying all that we run Motons and MCS suspension on quite a few of our street and track cars now and i am a bit fan. Moton is basically not available anymore as they once were. Now owned by AST and manufactured in the Netherlands. We have not used these since the ownership changed but I'm sure the 5100 series shock is still the same. Priced at $4965US including top mounts and springs.
http://www.ast-suspension.com/shop/s...200-492-detail

The last 2 sets we have used are both for street cars and they have been the MCS suspension. These are almost the same as the Motons just a different colour, Pricing seems around the $4400US for their 2 way
http://www.motioncontrolsuspension.c...ts/prices.html

One of the biggest benefits is that the range of control of both the Moton and MCS is far better then the KW. The race KWs we have on a customers car has 900 pound springs in the rear and the shock rebound is maxed out trying to control the spring. The Motons we have been able to go up to 1440 pound rear and still have adjustability left in the shock (also able to run as little as 200 pound spring front, they have a large range of adjustment) . Not that there is anything wrong with the KW's, they are made for and application and work well. Same goes for the other 2 brands. Quality and look wise the Motons and MSC win too with their billet rear shocks and adjusters. And pretty colours.

Regards
Sean

Paulyy

Sean,

When i had the rear struts on my desk, i wound down the perches and looked for the nut. But i believe Patricks ones would have the nut because they're club sports. Where the V3s are pre set to be direct bolt in and not to be modified.

MCS suspension was out of my price range for what i was after. I'm very happy with the KWs.

Perfect for a street car with some power behind the wheel. I've yet to put the suspension to the test though as i've been on holidays!

fejjj

Eric,

The set I bought had 685 rear springs.

Not wanting yet to delete the T bars, I bought a new set of 285 springs.

I gave the shocks and springs to my mechanic and he said nothing about having difficulty swapping springs.

I am still undecided wether or not I am going to delete the T bars and put the 685 springs back in.

If I stick with the 285's then I will be selling the 685's for about 1/2 of what KW charges.

URG8RB8

Sean and Paul:

Just got off the phone with Karl at Racer's Edge. He was brilliant to talk to and gave me the complete breakdown of the Moton and MCS story. If interested Google Jan Zuijdijk from JRZ Suspension. I am quite sure I will be going with MCS via Karl now. I am sure the after sales service will be much better and Karl knows our cars like the back of his hand. The feedback and suggestions he gave were quite nice and was also aware of the new KW's not being "field" serviceable anymore. On a side note he is also an authorized Forgeline dealer. I can feel my wallet getting smaller and smaller!

Thanks for all the information guys!

heliolps2

DISASSEMBLING THE KW COILOVERS)…

I did get instructions from KW’s tech on how to disassemble the coilover – because it’s a little tricky & not obvious. 1) Spin the coilover down to take tension off the spring. 2) The top of the coilover DOES unscrew off, but it lock-tight’d and… 3) You’ll need a bench-vice or steel rod or some way to unscrew the top of the coilover WHILE holding the shaft in place with a strap wrench (or similar rod clamp). Grab the shaft (giggles) as high up as possible with the shaft wrench, and don’t scratch/gouge it, because doing so will destroy the seals.