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Here is a view of right rear. And I can see now that the ABS sensor does look like it's easily removed. But you can see how my sensor wiring has no sheathing left on it.
Still don't really see how to remove the caliper with the brake line attached. I'm going to give it a try and see if I can get it off.
It can't be seen in your pics, but there are a series of plastic clips along the bottom of each rear trailing arm that help to hold the long brake hard lines in place. They can be pried apart with a small flat blade screwdriver, and that should allow enough movement to unscrew the hard line from the rear of the caliper without the risk of bending it too much.
Use an 11MM flare nut/line wrench instead of an open end wrench when cracking the brake line loose, it will minimize the chance of rounding off the hex fitting. Be careful when threading the fitting back into the caliper, brake fittings are notoriously easy to cross-thread. Make sure that the fitting threads in completely by hand before attempting to tighten it with a wrench.
A neat trick to prevent all the brake fluid from leaking out while the system is open is to use a pedal prop or something wedged between the brake pedal and seat (or steering wheel). Depress the brake pedal ~3/4". If you get it right, the bore seals on the brake master cylinder rod will block the inlet holes from the brake fluid reservoir, which will prevent all of the fluid from draining out, and the bleeding process after reassembly will be minimal.
However, if it has been more than 2 years since the brake fluid has been flushed, you should do that after reassembly.
09-01-2014, 12:49 PM
