951 8v head modification for 3l
#1
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does anyone have pictures of what is done to a 951 head to make it work on a 3l? I always figured that the water passage needed to be routed out, but the bolts dont even line up.
is the water passage cut off and a new one welded on?
The other option is a 2.7 head, but I understand that the exhaust needs to be coated? any idea who/where can do that?
Thanks
is the water passage cut off and a new one welded on?
The other option is a 2.7 head, but I understand that the exhaust needs to be coated? any idea who/where can do that?
Thanks
#2
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The 104mm blocks used on the 2.7 and 3 liter motors have a different shaped water port at the front, which has only one bolt to hold it down, compared to the two-bolt port on the 2.5 blocks. A router (milling machine?) won't do the trick. I know Lindsey and others advertised modified 2.5 heads, and assume they were welding and decking to match the 104mm block port. The 2.7 head costs more but its combustion chamber is designed for the bore and has bigger intake valves. I use 951 exhaust valves and had the ports coated by Swain, though I'd say coating the exhaust is optional really...
#3
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thanks, I guess im wondering what it is that Lindsey and others do. if its just welding the port, would it be possible just to fill it with deck fill cement? does the port on the block also need to be welded?
If I have to send my head off, ill probably get a stage 2 treatment (while your in there). would it be better to spend the $$ on a 2.7 head? and if so, is it possible to port the intake manifold with a dremel?
appreciate the help
If I have to send my head off, ill probably get a stage 2 treatment (while your in there). would it be better to spend the $$ on a 2.7 head? and if so, is it possible to port the intake manifold with a dremel?
appreciate the help
#5
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I will go the same route, but will use 48mm intake valves from 2.7 head.
Haven't been able to find a single picture of this modification anywhere. Its a complete miss-match so I wonder what would be the best approach for this..
Welding both holes and route water trough rubber hose seems to be the most reliable solution.
Haven't been able to find a single picture of this modification anywhere. Its a complete miss-match so I wonder what would be the best approach for this..
Welding both holes and route water trough rubber hose seems to be the most reliable solution.
#7
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Wow, beautiful, thank you. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What is the price of this modification @ LR?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
What is the price of this modification @ LR?
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#8
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That doesn't seem to match the pics in Voith's post #5. Looks like the modification would require the water jacket to move further towards the firewall than they've done? Unless his comparison shots aren't actually lined up correctly from the front of the motor?
#9
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Patrick,
the original pictures show the mismatch between the 2.5L cylinder head and 3.0L block. The cylinder head mod involves welding a boss onto the cooling passage at the front of the head and then milling a new cooling passage to mate with the 3.0L block
regards
the original pictures show the mismatch between the 2.5L cylinder head and 3.0L block. The cylinder head mod involves welding a boss onto the cooling passage at the front of the head and then milling a new cooling passage to mate with the 3.0L block
regards
#10
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Understood Fred. What I mean is that looking at the pics in Voith's post shows that the 2.5 Head looks shorter than the 3L block underneath it which makes the LR mod look incorrectly placed. I suspect that it's due to the head and block not lined up correctly in that pic.
#11
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Awesome. That's what I was looking for. Been all over Lindsey's site and missed those pics.
I think they charge very reasonably few hundred, so that is an option.
What are your thoughts of the 2,7 head for flow? Are the larger intake ports with the cost (say 1k or so)
I think they charge very reasonably few hundred, so that is an option.
What are your thoughts of the 2,7 head for flow? Are the larger intake ports with the cost (say 1k or so)
#12
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I used a 2.7 head and did not coat the exhaust ports. It's a street car with 6k miles on the 3L motor now, no problems. IMO if you're going to spent all that money on a LR port job and mod I'd go for the 2.7 head instead. The intakes are sooo much bigger. And there's always the possibility of the ceramic flaking off the 2.5 turbo head at some point.
#13
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2.5 water passage is moved to the rear for few centimeters
![](http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads15/944+head1252296498.jpg)
2.7/3.0 water passage is flat with the front of the engine
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/181276d1175192460-x-post-fs-89-944-2-7-head-complete-a-034.jpg)
(these two pictures are from other threads)
#14
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I used a 2.7 head and did not coat the exhaust ports. It's a street car with 6k miles on the 3L motor now, no problems. IMO if you're going to spent all that money on a LR port job and mod I'd go for the 2.7 head instead. The intakes are sooo much bigger. And there's always the possibility of the ceramic flaking off the 2.5 turbo head at some point.
Not sure why, but he said so.
#15
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Got 30k+ miles on my 2.7 head. No issues so far, even with 1.6 bar on a few recent occasions.
As Tom said the 2.7 combustion chamber is designed for a 104mm bore block, which is not the case of the 2.5 head.
A 2.5 head can certainly be modified in this direction but is it going to be more cost-effective, not sure.
As Tom said the 2.7 combustion chamber is designed for a 104mm bore block, which is not the case of the 2.5 head.
A 2.5 head can certainly be modified in this direction but is it going to be more cost-effective, not sure.