teamking

Hey all,

I'm at VIR and only making 1.2 bar of boost. I clamped the line from the cycling valuve to the wastegate, and now it does make boost. I've jumpered +12v across the electrical connectors to the cycling valve. Should I hear (or with my finger, feel) any clicking? I'm not, and it makes me think the cycling valve is bad.

Thoughts???

Oddjob

Very likely the CV. If you have a spare swap it. Otherwise its the KLR.

67King

Get the blink codes. there are several faults that coudl drive this. I got a 2-2, which was the knock sensor. Of course, now I"m getting a 3-1, but the wastegate is fine, so I'm not sure (also getting more than 1.2bar).

Good luck, BTDT, and I know it sucks.

Side note......key off, anyone know what the CV is "supposed" to do? Mine is currently open from teh inlet (banjo) to the wastegate. Does it close when the engine is running (can't crank mine right now)?

67King

Were you able to figure out anything?

Bill

Delete the cycling valve. I have not had one for years. Boost will hit harder, sooner.

67King

Not an option for club racers.

teamking

No, unfortunately. I ran as an n/a (1.2 bar) for the rest of the day on Wed and then had more issues on Thursday, so I parked the car and ran as a passenger.

Frustrating.

Thanks for the replies, though. Much appreciated.

Brian Morris

Check to make sure the vacuum line to the KLR is attached and the KLR is getting a good vacuum/boost signal. I think the KLR goes into limp mode if it doesn't get a good reading from the boost sensor. I've had problems with this after changing chips and not attaching the hose well.

teamking

OK. An update:

I needed to change out the crossover pipe (my one-piece had decided to become a two-piece), and elected to change out the cycling valve and speed/reference sensors while I was in there. I've been busy, so it has taken a while.

In any case, the car now performs as follows:

Under normal conditions, it now boosts to a maximum of 1.5 bar (per the gauge in the instrument cluster), it used to go to 1.75 or 1.8 bar.

I clamped the hose from the cycling valve to the wastegate, and then it boosts up to 1.75 bar. According to clarks-garage, this tells me that: "The wastegate is not being controlled properly. This could mean that the cycling valve is being given bad information due to a faulty DME, knock sensor or 'control units' or is faulty itself."

Since I know the cycling valve is not faulty itself, I'm left with a "faulty DME or knock sensor or 'control units'". Are "knock sensor" and "control units" synonymous?

In 2007, when I was getting this car back on the road, I resoldered the entire DME. So my suspicion is more on the knock sensor/control units.

Any thoughts? How do I determine the blink codes???

Adker

The KLR measures and controls boost and knock. Try swapping it out and check that the vacuum line to the KLR is in good order from the intake to the KLR.

teamking

So, in the clarks-garage quote:

"This could mean that the cycling valve is being given bad information due to a faulty DME, knock sensor or 'control units' or is faulty itself.",

'control units' means KLR, I guess.

So, my possible culprits at this point are:

1. DME
2. KLR
3. Knock Sensor/wiring
4. Vacuum line from intake to KLR

Any others?

Thanks for the help!

teamking

For future reference, I found the blink code information here:

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/BLINKCODE.html

67King

This is ironic. From one King to another, this is EXACTLY what my car has done. 1.2Bar. Got that fixed (wire on knock sensor). Now I'm running about 1.5Bar. So I'm down on power. What I have done to make diagnosis easier is:
- Relocate the CV to the bulkhead near where the wiper motor goes.
- Put an LED on the circuit, so I can tell if it is being commanded to cycle or not.

That said, why do you not think that the CV could be bad? I know you just replaced it, but when you were running 1.2Bar, you were in limp home mode.

1. I don't think it is DME. It doesn't really have much to do with boost.
2. Definite maybe.
3. Knock sensor will put you in limp home, or 1.2Bar
4. Possible. Also have to mention that Sloan at SSI has warned me that inside of the KLR, there is another jumper hose that can become cracked over time. You might check that, too.

Oddjob

Only up to 1.75bar w/ the line clamped? It should get up over 20 psig peak, and the dash gage will peg at 2.0 bar plus. You should try again with a separate boost gage to double check.

If youre only getting 1.75 bar (11 psig) clamped off, could be a WG or turbo issue.

teamking

So, I'm re-reading my posts and realize that I haven't been very clear. At this point, I think I was/am fighting two problems. I think it went like this:

The car ran at 1.75 bar for years.
At the track, it started running at 1.5 bar for some reason.
Later that same day and into the next, it started running at 1.2 bar and lower because my crossover pipe went from a slight leak to a full blowout.
I replaced the crossover pipe, the cycling valve, and some while you're in theres (speed/ref sensors) over the last few months (been busy)
Now, the car is back to running at 1.5 bar.



Those are all good ideas for troubleshooting. Thanks for the input.