Alex Sol

mahoney944... i`ll remember that cover for sure... i had my magnet on extension in there and will put in that hole for future service or repair

is there usually some kind of rubber cover like on 964 transmission.... to avoid this exact situation

looks like we`ll be inspecting the clutch and flywheel then.

anything to look for specifically when splitting the transmission

my 951 does not engage until very close to the top of the clutch pedal travel. is there any adjustment for this... i`ll check clarks..

thanks for the input and hope someone learns from my screw up...

Alex Sol

20 hours labor to remove and replace clutch .... includes removing exhaust, transaxle, and speed reference sensors...

ouch!!

Alex Sol

so i have started to look for the nut in the bell housing:

removed the intake as per clarks

removed the muffler to access the transaxle

removed the drive shaft bolts. some of them were less than finger tight!

removed the wastegate

stuck on the cross pipe that connects to the turbo by 4 x 14mm bolts. they are on there snug and likely rust welded... any suggestions?

meantime, i found a camera probe and a couple of tools to find things in tight places...

and will remove the tensioners on the main crank, pull out the spark plugs to minimize compression so i can turn the motor a little...

will keep you up to date. can't load up any pics though... i have 1.7mb worth of attachments and i'm trying to load up some 110 kb jpgs... how do i get rid of the 1.7 mb attachments?

Alex Sol

how many bolts hold the transaxle to the frame?

Tom M'Guinn

Shade-tree impact wrench is often my go-to solution for stuck bolt -- i.e., put a box end wrench on the bolt or nut, put on some goggles for eye protection, and then smack the wrench with a metal hammer to break the bolt/nut free. Penetrating fluid and heat can also help...

ehall

That reminds me. I need to tape up that hole tonight!

Alex Sol

cover that hole!!

i managed to back of the torque tube and bell housing bolts and with the bell housing about 1/2" backed off, i still cannot move the motor either way.

i slacked off the tensioners and removed the spark plugs for minimal resistance...

how far back can i pull back the bell housing without removing the transaxle?

Tom M'Guinn

What were you doing when you dropped the bolt? And how big was the bolt? I just saw that you are not sure if the bolt it in there, and are assuming so because the motor seized when you tried to start it. Were you doing anything else that might have seized the motor?

If the tranny and torque tube are still attached, you don't have much wiggle room as the rear of the tranny hits the body. The clutch fork is also attached to the bell housing but hooked on the throw out bearing, so that will limit movement back too. And if you pull back too far, the drive shaft nose will come out of the pilot bearing and I imagine be a pain to re-align with everything still bolted together like that. If you are pretty darn sure that bolt is your problem, then you may just go ahead and pull the tranny and slide the TT back so you can get at everything and take a real look. Other than the shifter rod, which can be a pain, dropping the tranny itself is surprisingly easy with a cheap-o tranny jack. It's like a huge starter motor... If you pull it, then you might as well redo the clutch too -- it'll never be easier...

Dubai944

So it's been three and a half weeks since you dropped the bolt....., I feel your pain but seriously, you could have had the drivetrain in and out several times by now

Removing the tranny is actually not that difficult and can be done in an hour or less if you have the right tools. Even allowing a few hours to do it will make your life so much easier.

Alex Sol

agreed dubai. i will pull the tranny. i've been tackling the job with the use of a hoist and just struggling with the rust weld nuts / bolts. so far no stripped bolts. i've pulled the info from Clarks and Paragon has a nice write on Clutch Replacement.

I'll be sure to check the clutch for the springs and maybe look at the cup / hd upgrade...

Alex Sol

so back in the shop today.

went through step by step but cannot rotate the motor. remember it is seized and therefore i don't seem to be able to rotate the drive shaft (between clutch and rear transaxle). i was able to loosen the clamp in the bell housing with enough access and lucky the orientation was correct. it was a 14mm bolt. question is... to remove the two 8 mm allen head bolt, i need to rotate the motor, can i still remove the transaxle?
i have slid the transmission all the way back and now it is hitting the spare tire. should i get a sawsall?

Alex Sol

correction, the clamping sleeve bolts are the 8mm allen bolts that i cannot get access to. they have to be rotated and lined up with the circular access window in the transaxle bell housing correct?

Any other way to do this?

lart951

Are you referring to the pressure plate bolts?

Adker

Have someone push the clutch in with it out of gear and you should be able to turn the driveshaft through the access hole.

Tom M'Guinn

Or leave it in gear with clutch disengaged and turn the wheels to get the coupler to rotate. I'd re-bolt up the bell housing and TT before pushing the clutch in though...