Sorry for the weird angle. Hard to get the light right

 

Ok...was I totally confused or is there supposed to be a cooler in there or is there just an external oil cooler only on turbos.



I am always surprised at what I find floating around in the engine. There you see a sandy substance. No idea...




By the way, thanks for all the replies. This is making this rebuild much more fun and interesting. I hope you guys enjoy it as much as I do.

 

Your cylinder walls look like they are in good shape. I didn't see any scratches or gouges from the pictures you've posted. If you do have some minor scratches, it will become a more serious issue if you can catch them with your nail.

 

Ok here is what I did last night. Pretty much got the engine stripped down to just the block, crank, pistons and oil pan. Studs came out with some brute strength, but not too hard except the last one.

I didn't want to take the balance shafts out, but had to since the rear seals were leaking so badly. I don't exactly understand why there is a seal in the back to be honest, looks like they could have just enclosed the cover with a gasket.




The oil leaking was obviously severe there accounting for the frequent filling up of oil.
Also, can anybody shed light on if there should be an oil/water cooler in the turbos or just an external cooler. See picture.



Here you can see inside the accessory mount where a spider, cockroach, and bee had made a residence at one point. Evicted.



Lastly, got the head studs out. Just used two nuts tightened on each other very very tightly (used two cheater pipes to tighten them) then they broke free from the loctite with brute force. One was a real pita, ended up heating the stud with no success, then welding the top nut to the stud then I could back it out with a lot of force. Not too bad, but I was worried that I would break the stud with the combo of heating and applying all that torque in which case the jury is out with what I would have done.



Again, thanks for all the replies and let me know what the word is on the oil cooler. Am I just an idiot?

 

No oil/water cooler on turbo. External only.

I will have some serious overkill balance shaft seals made of viton rubber in a week or two. Factory seals are crap.

 

Yeah that round seal holder was literally just bouncing around in there. Are yours just going to be bigger/stronger. What have you found to be the issue with stock?

Therefore, I had been running this car without any oil cooler. Efff

 

Oil pan is off as well as oil pump. Interesting what was done. Seems like something broke before and they opted to repair the oil pan. See the next post's pictures. There were some metal bits on the oil pickup (which has a hole in it). Also found some water in the oil pump (could have been from rotating the engine on stand during removal).

But now I have a question. Upon further inspection, I did see that in one of the cylinders I can catch my fingernail on a scratch. Is this block toasted or can I put new sleeves in?

 

 

You can sleeve the block but not with any OEM part. Dry or MID sleeve it. If the scratch is minor you could put it back together and just deal with a bit of smoke. Assuming you're going to get the block cleaned too.

 

WFT ..... Is that for real?
They blocked up the bottom of the oil pan with that ....
Holy S#$%
Now I seen it all
The people who owned that car previously should have been shot !@@

 

Yeah I'm looking to get it cleaned professionally. I'm deciding whether or not to send it out as a unit with the crank and pistons in it and have a company clean and rebuild the bottom end or take it out and then have somebody clean it and also take care of the sleeves.

And yes interesting mechanical things on this.it also had a couple of metal pieces trying to be sucked into the oil pickup

 

Here are more detailed pictures of the cylinders. I took pictures of each quadrant of the cylinder. Please let me know what you think. I took a quick measurement of one of the scratches. The one between 4.1 and 4.2 is between 0.002" and 0.003" deep at the top of it. See the tool used and don't judge too much. Essentially I just glued a sharpened thumb tack into the end of a dial gauge then ran it from the edge of the scratch into the scratch and looked at the difference. I measured it as straight on as I could (which turned out to be about a 15 degree angle from the top).

The other one I could catch on my finger nail, but not measure on the tool was next to 1.2. The other ones you see are barely noticeable by feel.

 

Here are the rest of the pictures and the tool i used.