I tried searching, but didn't find a clear answer.

I'm converting my '86 suspension to M030, and am curious about finding out how to change the offset in the rear, without using spacers?

I like the idea of having a more solid wheel assembly, so that's why I'm trying to stay away from just putting on spacers, if possible. Also, it's not like they're exactly 'cheap'.

But is it even more expensive to get the necessary parts to convert to late offset, rather than just throwing on spacers?

Car is street driven.

 

There are so many late suspensions available from the late 944, just get a complete set including the torsenbar and bolt it on..

 

But what does a "complete set" include? I've already got Koni Yellows in the back. Do I need to get late trailing arms, as well as torsion bars in order to change my offset?

 

I'm still looking for an answer. Any help?

 

Just bolt on the aluminum trailing arms and spring plates from a later 87+ car. That's what I did on my 79 924 and it went together like factory. Don't worry about ABS you can leave the sensors off and resell them or use them for a traction control solution (would require a custom ECU to monitor the wheel speeds.)

You will need to reindex the torsion bars to do this, so you might as well get a stiffer set of Tbars while you're in there. Either from a later car or from a vendor.

To reindex the Tbars whether staying stock or going larger:

http://944spec.org/944SPEC/technical...ar-re-indexing

To determine a factory car that will have larger rear bars to use a donor:

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/susp-15.htm

For larger bars ($150 a set):

26mm: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....de=C12-6569-26

27mm: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....de=C12-6569-27

28mm: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....de=C12-6569-28 <--I have these on my 924 and they are just about right on a lightweight race car and would be about right for a heavier turbo occasional street car with Koni's. A friend put the 27's on his 924 Turbo and they were a little heavy for his use, but the 924 turbo is lighter than a 944 Turbo, so YMMV

 

Thanks. With needing to reindex the bars, I'll just rip em out and go with coilovers.

I suppose I'll need to change to late axles as well huh? Ok then.

 

I wouldn't go to adjustable coil overs. Torsion bars work just fine and keep the center of gravity low. Plus there have been some reported failures of shock mounts with coil overs.

 

If you are only interested in changing the offset then the only item that you need is later model hubs.
Did the same thing on my 1986 951 to fit 996 GT3 wheels with 285 tyres.

 

You must use a late offset axle and hub to convert to late offset. Unlike the front control arms, the overall dimensions of the trailing arms are the same between early and late cars.

 

Hub and rotor is the only difference. When I converted my 87+ trailing arms to early offset, I used 924S hubs and rotors and I compared the stub axles and they were the same.

 

So which is it?? This is why I'm confused. It would make sense that the late cv axle would be slightly longer to account for the further offset hub, no? Otherwise, what is the difference between the to axles? It also makes sense to me that the trailing arms would be the same dimensions.

My reasoning for preferring to going full coilovers is for ease of ride height adjustment, ease of spring rate adjustment (swapping springs), and the fact that the car is only street driven. With all that being said, I'm not worried about the mounts, and yes I've heard the horror stories... Besides, I can always weld something up to beef things up a bit.

 

I have to correct my earlier post - I did also use the later model rear wheel shaft but only because I wanted to use the ABS ring. Pretty sure there was no difference in length between the 86 and later version, but this was 7 years ago so can't be sure. Play safe and fit the hub and rear wheel shaft from the later model. Rear Wheel Shaft is not the same item as a Drive Shaft.
Drive shafts are the same length, the rear wheel shaft is what fits between the end of the drive shaft and the hub. Late model drive shafts had different stronger splines and would require late model CV joints.

 

The only differences in axle length is between the steel and aluminum arms.

The Automatics also have a different axle length.

The change in offset in the rear is done through the outer portion of the hub.

Changing the entire rear arm assembly is in someways easier than tracking down the proper rear hubs, 3/4" tooling and pullers to replace the rear wheel bearings since you can't just remove the 300ft-lb nut and swap hubs without changing the rear wheel bearings.

If you have a spare set of trailing arms, you can have a machine shop replace the bearings for you and just drop the assembly into place and as long as nothing else changes you should only need to double-check the ride height and alignment after tightening everything to the proper spec.

 

OK thanks for clearing that up. Sounds like it's easier to just rip my trailing arms out and swap them with late model trailing arms.

The other thing I'm curious about is the difference, if any, between '87 & '88(non S) and the turbo S cars' offsets. Looking at this: http://944turbo.net/?p=367 it appears that there is a significant difference. Now is that offset of the wheels only, or does the M030 have a different width than the non S cars?

 

i have a 86 with coil over shocks. in wanting to get rid of spacers and brake upgrade all i would need to do is put hubs from an 87+ 944. does it matter if mine is a turbo but hubs are off of a 944 na. thanks