Mystery of the vanishing coolant?
#46
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As an addendum to this thread, we continue to have h/g issues on the track car. We even turned the boost back down to 18psi and thought that might sneak through. Worked for a little while (read, half a day) but then we saw the signs of coolant on parts of the car underneath. Still managed to record some very good times with the car but this failure rate is distracting and becomes expensive over a season.
So now the motor is out and the head and block are being sent off to be O ring'd and we'll get a custom copper gasket made up. Our intention is to be able to run about 1.8bar on the straights either via lateral grip or even a push to pass button. Maybe rising with rpms. Not 100% on the method yet.
So now the motor is out and the head and block are being sent off to be O ring'd and we'll get a custom copper gasket made up. Our intention is to be able to run about 1.8bar on the straights either via lateral grip or even a push to pass button. Maybe rising with rpms. Not 100% on the method yet.
#48
Three Wheelin'
The 16V head should help in several ways. The head itself is a stiffer construction and will also have less peak cylinder pressure according to what I have read. Also the 16v Porsche manual states that the S2 head has increased strength in the studs area and needs less torque when installing.
Did you retorque the studs after heat cycling the engine?
Did you retorque the studs after heat cycling the engine?
Patrick - what thickness Cometic do you use?
Do you have a knock light installed in your car? Knocking is a funny thing - it never showed up on the dyno in my car, yet I still get quite a few counts on track. Running E85 probably helps you a lot though, I run 98RON + Octane booster on track for about 101RON resultant.
#49
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#50
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No retorque. As that is "optional" (ie not specified by the FWSM), and involves a whole bunch of disassembly (belts, pulley, cams), I did not.
Patrick - what thickness Cometic do you use?
Do you have a knock light installed in your car? Knocking is a funny thing - it never showed up on the dyno in my car, yet I still get quite a few counts on track. Running E85 probably helps you a lot though, I run 98RON + Octane booster on track for about 101RON resultant.
Patrick - what thickness Cometic do you use?
Do you have a knock light installed in your car? Knocking is a funny thing - it never showed up on the dyno in my car, yet I still get quite a few counts on track. Running E85 probably helps you a lot though, I run 98RON + Octane booster on track for about 101RON resultant.
I don't actually know which thickness my h/g is. Sean will know. I can't remember being offered anything but what we use. I think Corleone used to pull his apart and put hylomar inbetween all the layers too. Could be overkill but his build is stuff of legend.
No knock light but we can run one if wanted. We run Motec knock control. Have had some minor counts but now running Martini E85 said to be 116oct. I am a bit dubious over those oct claims but "all the fast guys are using it" and it works for us. Not cheap though. Do you have any United or Caltex servo's near you that vend their pump E85? Might be worth making the change.
David, who specified that particular thickness ? Do you know what your c/r is?
#51
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#52
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[QUOTE=333pg333;11473274]What do you use now Bob? What boost and fuel do you run?
I have only run about 17 psi at it using 98 octane. I have a .051 Cometic now had it at the track a couple of weeks ago, track temp was around 130 F no problems. I have been using it about 6 months now. I thought I had an issue around March but it was the radiator cap.
My engine was rebuilt with MID sleeves, very different thermal expansion than the alusil block which is the main reason I switched to the Cometic as it flexes a little where the copper does not. If you go with the copper you may want to consider stock head studs for the extra stretch.
My ECU is a Motec. So I can control most parameters.
I have only run about 17 psi at it using 98 octane. I have a .051 Cometic now had it at the track a couple of weeks ago, track temp was around 130 F no problems. I have been using it about 6 months now. I thought I had an issue around March but it was the radiator cap.
My engine was rebuilt with MID sleeves, very different thermal expansion than the alusil block which is the main reason I switched to the Cometic as it flexes a little where the copper does not. If you go with the copper you may want to consider stock head studs for the extra stretch.
My ECU is a Motec. So I can control most parameters.
#53
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Highly recommended 'cheap' mod - add a pressure sensor to your coolant expansion tank and datalog the results. You will see the signs of a failing headgasket there long before it does any damage. I have that sensor (an oil pressure or fuel pressure sensor will work fine) hooked into my ECU and programmed to kill boost if it sees over 17psi (you have to set is just at or slightly above above you cap pressure).
I also found a nice bleeder to replace the stock screw - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...Fe1QOgod-jIA7A you just push it in and it will vent the air. it takes all of 2 seconds and it can be done after each track session to double check the coolant system.
Hmmm...I wonder why I pass on all my little secrets? I should charge you guys for these gems!!!
I also found a nice bleeder to replace the stock screw - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...Fe1QOgod-jIA7A you just push it in and it will vent the air. it takes all of 2 seconds and it can be done after each track session to double check the coolant system.
Hmmm...I wonder why I pass on all my little secrets? I should charge you guys for these gems!!!
#54
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As an addendum to this thread, we continue to have h/g issues on the track car. We even turned the boost back down to 18psi and thought that might sneak through. Worked for a little while (read, half a day) but then we saw the signs of coolant on parts of the car underneath. Still managed to record some very good times with the car but this failure rate is distracting and becomes expensive over a season.
So now the motor is out and the head and block are being sent off to be O ring'd and we'll get a custom copper gasket made up. Our intention is to be able to run about 1.8bar on the straights either via lateral grip or even a push to pass button. Maybe rising with rpms. Not 100% on the method yet.
So now the motor is out and the head and block are being sent off to be O ring'd and we'll get a custom copper gasket made up. Our intention is to be able to run about 1.8bar on the straights either via lateral grip or even a push to pass button. Maybe rising with rpms. Not 100% on the method yet.
#55
No retorque. As that is "optional" (ie not specified by the FWSM), and involves a whole bunch of disassembly (belts, pulley, cams), I did not.
Patrick - what thickness Cometic do you use?
Do you have a knock light installed in your car? Knocking is a funny thing - it never showed up on the dyno in my car, yet I still get quite a few counts on track. Running E85 probably helps you a lot though, I run 98RON + Octane booster on track for about 101RON resultant.
Patrick - what thickness Cometic do you use?
Do you have a knock light installed in your car? Knocking is a funny thing - it never showed up on the dyno in my car, yet I still get quite a few counts on track. Running E85 probably helps you a lot though, I run 98RON + Octane booster on track for about 101RON resultant.
#56
Three Wheelin'
I also found a nice bleeder to replace the stock screw - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...Fe1QOgod-jIA7A you just push it in and it will vent the air. it takes all of 2 seconds and it can be done after each track session to double check the coolant system.
Hmmm...I wonder why I pass on all my little secrets? I should charge you guys for these gems!!!
Hmmm...I wonder why I pass on all my little secrets? I should charge you guys for these gems!!!
FYI I'm another buyer for your book, hurry up and get writing!
#57
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As for the book, you should see his photography book. Seriously, it was amazing!