Stock pistons with cast iron sleeves : what rings to use?
#17
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Bumping this up...
For a motor that is already sleeved and using JE pistons in need of a rebuild...are these the proper piston rings to use? I have not yet torn the motor down yet but believe it to be stock bore size.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-t2166/overview/
For a motor that is already sleeved and using JE pistons in need of a rebuild...are these the proper piston rings to use? I have not yet torn the motor down yet but believe it to be stock bore size.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-t2166/overview/
#18
Rennlist Member
Another bump from me...
Cylinder 4 is scratched - on a Street car it would not be a problem, however on a race car, it is a big no-no...
The car will be raced in the Youngtimer series in Germany. As such, I cannot go bigger than stock displacement. Thus the block will be sleeved as getting it nikasilled in the UK is a massive ball-ache.
Now - the 1million USD question - can we run the original pistons in the sleeved block - ductile cast iron - or shall I bite the bullet and get a new uncoated set from Arias? The difference is $1000, which is not much in the grand scheme of things, but then every little helps...
Any thoughts?
Cylinder 4 is scratched - on a Street car it would not be a problem, however on a race car, it is a big no-no...
The car will be raced in the Youngtimer series in Germany. As such, I cannot go bigger than stock displacement. Thus the block will be sleeved as getting it nikasilled in the UK is a massive ball-ache.
Now - the 1million USD question - can we run the original pistons in the sleeved block - ductile cast iron - or shall I bite the bullet and get a new uncoated set from Arias? The difference is $1000, which is not much in the grand scheme of things, but then every little helps...
Any thoughts?
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Update: All cylinders where out of specs, so I ended up doing a total rebuilt...
1. Head was in bad condition (ceramic in the exhaust port was flaking) : Replaced with a NA head (swapped valves and springs, new valve stems and guides)
2. Sleeves for the cylinders
3. New Wiseco pistons (took 6 weeks to get them)
4. All new crank/rog bearings
Now we are at the reassembly stage, new gaskets and seals etc...
Got some pictures, I repainted the block, oil pan... it starting to look good...
1. Head was in bad condition (ceramic in the exhaust port was flaking) : Replaced with a NA head (swapped valves and springs, new valve stems and guides)
2. Sleeves for the cylinders
3. New Wiseco pistons (took 6 weeks to get them)
4. All new crank/rog bearings
Now we are at the reassembly stage, new gaskets and seals etc...
Got some pictures, I repainted the block, oil pan... it starting to look good...
Last edited by eric951turbo; 09-03-2014 at 10:42 AM.
#22
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#23
Rennlist Member
V2, I'm getting a block that has also been sleeved to stock bore size (100mm). Supposedly running great when pulled and has 20K miles on it (I'm thinking the miles are a good thing, assuring the sleeve job was done properly). Appears to have stock pistons/rods. I won't have it until the end of the month. Is there any way to tell what type rings from looking at them? I'll post some pics when I get it and tear it apart. Think I may have jumped the gun a little on it (but it was a great deal) because I got it with the idea of doing a Sid/Refresh 2.85 stroker. I was thinking I could bore it out to 102mm, but after reading more it looks like sleeving with 102mm would have been the thing to do (the pics I have don't look like there is much there to the sleeve)...
#24
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
mtnman, I'm in the same boat.
Motor I bought recently has sleeves too, but I don't know what bore size because its got JE pistons too...
apparently the motor was really tired which is why it was parked, and I figure if the walls need cleaning up and the sleeves are thick enough I might do a stroker too.
But if they're good, and stock bore size, then I would just re-ring and re-bearing the motor.
Motor I bought recently has sleeves too, but I don't know what bore size because its got JE pistons too...
apparently the motor was really tired which is why it was parked, and I figure if the walls need cleaning up and the sleeves are thick enough I might do a stroker too.
But if they're good, and stock bore size, then I would just re-ring and re-bearing the motor.
#25
Rennlist Member
Don't the JE's usually have the size stamped on them?
If I do have to stick with stock bore size, I think I'd still like to do the offset grind crank, but keeping stock bore would only work out to ~2.7l...
If I do have to stick with stock bore size, I think I'd still like to do the offset grind crank, but keeping stock bore would only work out to ~2.7l...
#26
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=mtnman82;11271144]Don't the JE's usually have the size stamped on them?
No,
http://www.jepistons.com/TechCorner/HowToIdentify.aspx
Mine say 102M
No,
http://www.jepistons.com/TechCorner/HowToIdentify.aspx
Mine say 102M
#27
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If you do not have the original box, try to locate the original JE/SRP invoice.
If you have no documentation for your JE or SRP Pistons, you can mail a sample to JE Pistons to reverse engineer.
If no order is placed, there is a one-time $75 layout fee for this service.
If you have no documentation for your JE or SRP Pistons, you can mail a sample to JE Pistons to reverse engineer.
If no order is placed, there is a one-time $75 layout fee for this service.