reno808

i thought it was from brake boosting

Carlsbergas

I wish it was so I knew I did it. Now who knows how long the car was in this condition, because the guy I bought it from had it for few years and drove only on autocross few times then kept it in the garage.

lee101315

How is it possible that the mount broke and didnt **** engine oil all over the place?

Carlsbergas

Call me lucky, but it broke after the oil tube. So the portion with tube is still in place

Scott H

The 70mm OD inlet means it's a TO4B compressor cover but more importantly you need to measure the ID to get a rough approximation of the impeller, from there we can make some guesses as to what you have. To tell you exactly what you have you need to remove the compressor cover and measure the exducer and the inducer. For the turbine side you don't need to remove the housing, just snap a picture and measure diameter of the wheel, more than likely it'll be a Stage 3 or 5 T3 wheel on the exhaust side.

User 52121

+1

Though I'm pretty sure I already said in another thread that this car should be parked and not moved until a competent mechanic goes through it with a fine-toothed comb.

The fact that you found this broken mount merely by accident concerns me over what else might be broken under there that you're simply not aware of. Really this thing needs to be towed somewhere where they are familiar with 944's and looked over before it's put back on the road.

Carlsbergas

Its not like I have money tree growing in my yard, im not ready to pay who knows what amount of money for inspection. Im going thru everything step by step my self, I always thought there might be something wrong withe the lefy side engine mount since my steering column was touching the exhaust I just didn't expect to see what I saw

Carlsbergas

Ill probably do that when I will be working on exhaust gaskets

lee101315

Really? You felt that there *might* have been something wrong? I can put my hand on the steering wheel with the engine running and tell you that the engine mounts have seen better days... that engine being collapsed should have been as clear as day that something was seriously wrong.

Here's what I would do, since you seem to have the initiative and some mechanical skill, but sorely lack in experience in troubleshooting. Take the car to a mechanic that specializes in euros, and pay him to go through the entire car. He's going to charge you a diagnostic fee of at least an hour, which is fair. Have him put down what he finds in writing, and start doing the work yourself...there are plenty of DIYs and members here to support you. But its time to be brutally honest, you aren't a mechanic and you seem to have very little experience troubleshooting, so thats best left to someone with experience. It'll be a good thing, take that list and start banging stuff out every weekend, start with the important stuff...like the engine mount.

Carlsbergas

+1 I agree im not a mechanic, but I love to do repairs my self even if it takes me twice as long, and if I ever need help my brother is a mechanic another brother is bodyman and my dad is a painter, so together we can almost do anything.
I aready had to rebuild a cam tower on my car, had a mangled woodruf key and keyways. Then did water pump and timing belt job, had replaced every vacuum/boost hose and so on. So im not affraid of the challenges this car might bring

User 52121

Troubleshooting and identifying problems is not necessarily the same as being able to take stuff apart and put it back together.

You need this thing to be gone over by someone who is a good technician. Take it to one of the many specialists in the area... Eurosport, Fischer, CPT, VFC... pay them to do what would usually be a PPI. Tell them what you've found so far so they know what they're dealing with. You have the $$$ to buy new performance parts and repeated dyno runs so you should have the money to have this thing looked over. Seriously man - this is a safety issue... for you, and for others sharing the road with you.

You like taking stuff apart and putting it back together. That's great! That's more than a lot of people can do. But you also need to realize that unless you are taking it apart and putting it together PROPERLY then the car isn't any better than it was before you tried to fix it yourself. This car is a 3,000lb missile trundling down the road, not a toy. If anything, take Lee's advice, get the "to-do" list from a technician, and slowly tackle that list yourself. But do it PROPERLY. No ghetto-rigged hockey puck duct tape repairs. Park the car until that list is complete.

Carlsbergas

When ill finish replacing mounts ill take the car to fisher.. and let them take a look at it. Believe me I dont wanna end up in a horrible wreck I drive people everyday from airports and back, and in a year working as a limo driver, it totaly changed my position about driving, I dont say that I dont do stupid things like speeding and racing, but im more concious about the consequences. Thats why I want to get the car in great runing condition and take it to the track, get the itch and heavy right foot out

Carlsbergas

So I finnaly adjusted my idle to 900rpms and it always stays there had to readjust my tps since it didnt always click like it should. Thing is I had to adjust my idle adjustment screw all the way in, to get to 900 rpms, is that normal?

travisgreen

I would recommend not trusting your factory tach, there's a good chance 1100 is closer to 900 using your stock gauge

Carlsbergas

Im so dumb.. I had figured out that it showd 200rpms more than it is when I was checking gear ratios doing 65 it showed 3200 instead of 3000. And I totaly forgot