URG8RB8

I would say yes, but of course there is always the case of diminishing returns and how picky you are. I would have argued all day that a set of billet pulleys could not be out of balance but they were, similar to my billet flywheel. As previously mentioned, less likely with mostly stock parts, but still worth it as cheap insurance in my opinion. The balancing is fairly cheap and what is another $200 on this expensive engine.

Chris White

As long as they are balanced separately they will be fine assembled. Keep in mind that the further the part is from the center line of the crank the more important the balance is. In other words the balance of a flywheel can have a much greater effect than the balance of a crank pulley

superloaf

Disassembling my car towards an oil pan gasket replacement and just wondering if the no sealant theory still holds? Would hate to use this method only to find out later that the no sealant rule is from this 2013 thread and obsolete.

Are everyone's gaskets not leaking 3 years later? Thanks, I like the no sealant method as it's one less item to stress over and buy.

Crazy Eddie

I wouldn't do it again
I would use Yama bond etc
It's not worth the headache
Ask me how I know

Dave951

On my old motor when I changed the pan gasket I installed it dry. It did not leak. On my newest I used a tiny bit of Permatex 25224 The Right Stuff gasket maker on the corners.

Adonay

I Have used LOCTITE SI 5926 3 times on my oilpan, found 22 nuts and torqued down the gasket before installing and letting the sealant dry.
All sealant that is outside the gasket can be pulled off.
Why ? Sometimes i install the pan with out a hoist and struggle to align the gasket properly and fast with limited clearance and light.
When the gasket is glued to the pan i dont have to fight to thread bolts or try to put screwdrivers in to holes to mount the next bolt. when i remove the pan it takes me no more than 10 mins to clean off the old sealant "just pull it off".

Orings can wary in size sometimes they are to small and hard to notice , only when working with pneumatics you will truly notice this. I would never use a sealant for a oring but i will always install rubber orings with oring specific lube for the first time to ensure that there will be no damage done when installing the oring and that it seals correctly . I use Dow cornering 30 or 55 for those times .

Tom M'Guinn

I forget, did you try the oil-only method and have it leak?

Crazy Eddie

I went full dry and it leaked
That was first trying the gray permatext
https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/
And not letting it setup first
If you don't wait a bit it acts like a lubricant and the gasket will squeeze out and hit the flywheel ( ask me how I know that&#128580
So I wiped it off on the ends where I put it and went dry
Actually it doesn't seem to be dripping now but a few minute drops
But that took over a yr to abate
Regards
Ed

superloaf

Thanks for the updates...I fear that my 170k mile engine may have some blowby so I am going to use Yamabond/Hondabond 4 in the corners but still the questions:

1) What exactly constitutes the corners? Should I go around the groove where the gasket goes around the crankshaft or should I stick to just the flat corners around the bolt holes?

2) I fully appreciate and understand the idea of coating the gasket with a bit of oil but when using the sealant in the corners, is it still possible to do this? I guess the options would be to coat except where the sealant is or just coat the whole gasket and let the sealant seal to the oiled gasket. Yamabond is quite sticky so I'm sure it would still seal but just not sure how well....

fortysixandtwo

1. Corners are where the crank girdle and block meet. (either side of the two humps) By applying a "wet" sealant to this region, that later cures, you ensure there are no gaps between the block and its variations, and the gasket and its variations.

2. Personally I don't understand wetting this gasket with oil. Its a static seal vs one that seals a rotating or sliding shaft which needs a little lubrication. Applying oil amounts to putting it into a "leak" condition then squeezing the excess oil out when tightening the bolts; but still leaving a thin layer of oil across the seal. Get the sealing surfaces really clean, (except for RTV in the corners) and don't let the gasket push out while stepping all the bolts down in sequence. The gasket bulges as its compressed, keep the arc of the bulge so it meets up with the oil pan and block (doesn't mushroom over the edges) . What this does is make it so the gasket mushrooms on the inside of the crankcase, making it much more difficult to push out.

superloaf

ok, I am officially disgusted and frustrated with this gasket. Something is wrong in the design and sizing of the gasket or the torque sequence or something. I've followed instructions and yet my gasket is bulging even at the second torque setting of 3 ft lbs. It is bulging at the rear and about to touch the flywheel. I torqued it once up to the final setting and then loosened evrything back to full loose and started again after working the gasket back into place, no small feat. I'm now back to 3 ft lbs and it's bulging again so I guess I have to completely remove, strip all the sealant and start over! I'm thinking of torquing backwards so the corners are tightened first; has anyone tried this? Of course that will probably only cause it to bulge out in the center instead of at the ends.

And the way it is instructed to torque, you basically end up with the final torque only at the corners and the middle remains loose. I am so annoyed with this! Anyone have any ideas? Do they always bulge out or does that mean it will leak? Worst case scenario is that it will rub on flywheel although I guess it would just make a groove in the bulging gasket....Don't know what to do....

fortysixandtwo

When you say bulge do you mean the gasket is slipping out from between the block and pan, or that its squishing and going form a [ ] cross section to a ( ) one?

superloaf

First one, slipping out between block and pan.

Dave951

Yes, perhaps at the end of each stage the earlier bolts will no longer be at the set spec. So make sure after you complete the first stage at 3ft/lbs you go back in sequence again to make sure the earlier bolts are still at 3 before proceeding to 6ft/lbs. If I recall it takes a few rechecks before the gasket settles in at 3.

superloaf

That's exactly what I dig the first time. Then I thought maybe that was wrong so I just did as instructed by torquing and then moving on to the next torque setting. The second method seemed to work better but still it bulges. I thought maybe Porsche intended for the corners to be tighter but I don't know what they were thinking when they designed this ridiculous gasket.
Someone in another thread says he cleaned the gasket with alcohol to remove mold release, etc. and his went on with no problems. Is this a valid point or am I just searching for anything at this point?

Oh, and no one has said if they always bulge or not. Is it possible to install with no bulging at all? And if I can't get it that way, will the bulging cause it to leak?