944 Turbo Nissan Alternator mod (reposted and to the point)
#136
Rennlist Member
anybody??? Still batting the battery light issue. Just got the car up and running a couple weeks ago and this is the last issue with it. The alternator seems to be charging the battery well and the volts are steady when started. 13.8-14.5. So I don’t think it’s the voltage regulator. Im gonna try to rewrire the alternator. Taking off the jumper wire and going directly to the positive battery terminal. Anyone else have any suggestions???
#137
Also if it was the voltage regulator it would have probably crapped out by now or gotten to the point of showing bad voltage. Which it isn’t. Might redoing some of the wires and getting rid of the jumper wire. Running that wire straight to the positive battery terminal.
#138
initially I thought it was. But the light flickers it stays on independent of what voltage my meter is reading. It could be on at 14V. Or it could be off at 14V. Very random. The only thing that it seems to be triggered by is the heat of the engine bay. Once the car is hot it comes on, when cold it stays off...
Also if it was the voltage regulator it would have probably crapped out by now or gotten to the point of showing bad voltage. Which it isn’t. Might redoing some of the wires and getting rid of the jumper wire. Running that wire straight to the positive battery terminal.
#140
Burning Brakes
#141
Rennlist Member
Corolla 70amps
Quest 110amps
Enaic pioneered the fitment and hookup. Takes some fab work but a excellent mod.
wow just checked the link, guy has hot rodded em to 125 amps
Quest 110amps
Enaic pioneered the fitment and hookup. Takes some fab work but a excellent mod.
wow just checked the link, guy has hot rodded em to 125 amps
Last edited by gpr8er; 01-15-2019 at 09:38 PM.
#143
Burning Brakes
70 amps would be plenty for my track car. Do the Corolla alternator's mounting holes line up reasonably well with those of the stock alternator?
#144
#145
Burning Brakes
Well, I still drive it on the street, mostly to and from the track, so not having the alternator run while the car is idling could present a problem. Also, figuring out a way to mount it sounds like a bit of a challenge.
#146
Burning Brakes
#147
If you place the stock alternator and the alternator you plan to moddify side by side on a flat surface, sitting on the face of their pullies and rotate the mounting tabs towards each other. You'll clearly see how much material needs to be removed or shimmed with washers. For the most part your going to have a main positive cable that runs to the battery through the starter post, a signal wire to run the gauge on the dash, and a 12v reference wire to check the system for load changes which controls the regulator. Many people have simply connected that reference wire right back to the main power lead on the back of the alternator, like myself which works flawlessly. However the reference wire would better represent the system connecting at the battery to account for any voltage drop. Other than that, You simply cut the stock alternator mount to accommodate your new alternator. All and all a easy mod to do. You might try taking your stock alternator to the parts store and comparing the mounting tabs on their counter as described above before purchasing it.
#149
Rennlist Member
#150
I do not know if it was mentioned before but what is the measure between the bolt holes in the original generator?
thought about trying to find a generator that fits without having to modify the bracket on the engine.
thought about trying to find a generator that fits without having to modify the bracket on the engine.