Can someone take a look at my head gasket pic???
07-18-2003, 08:17 AM
#17
I guess I will investigate my options further.
I am not so sure that the "standard Material" comment is so based in fact, but as we all should look into this more, I will make sure I have facts before a decision.
Unfortunatley, many times the internet is the LAST place you should look for facts.
I am not so sure that the "standard Material" comment is so based in fact, but as we all should look into this more, I will make sure I have facts before a decision.
Unfortunatley, many times the internet is the LAST place you should look for facts.
07-18-2003, 09:13 AM
#18
Pro
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Corona, California
Posts: 595
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm gonna be honest with you here and I don't mean to flame you, because you were probably not the person who built this motor....
That headgasket looks like crap. It is a stock appearing gasket for stock bores. Stock bore is 100mm and you have 106mmm. I don't know if you could even have sealing as the metal in the gasket may not line up with the bores. Even is it is for a 104mm bore (2.7), it is not the correct size. Matt Shepard had the same type of issue with his 2.7 I believe. Best case scenario you would have metal from the gasket hanging into the combustion chamber. This is a BIG no-no. Furthermore, it appears that the water jacket part of the gasket was hacked on with some silicone. You need the proper gasket for effective sealing. I have heard nothing but nigthmare stories from these bored motors. Rob Langley had a terrible experience with hgs blowing, Matt has a 109 psi 2.7, and you have a newly built motor already blowing hgs. What is the deal? Who built the motor?
That headgasket looks like crap. It is a stock appearing gasket for stock bores. Stock bore is 100mm and you have 106mmm. I don't know if you could even have sealing as the metal in the gasket may not line up with the bores. Even is it is for a 104mm bore (2.7), it is not the correct size. Matt Shepard had the same type of issue with his 2.7 I believe. Best case scenario you would have metal from the gasket hanging into the combustion chamber. This is a BIG no-no. Furthermore, it appears that the water jacket part of the gasket was hacked on with some silicone. You need the proper gasket for effective sealing. I have heard nothing but nigthmare stories from these bored motors. Rob Langley had a terrible experience with hgs blowing, Matt has a 109 psi 2.7, and you have a newly built motor already blowing hgs. What is the deal? Who built the motor?
07-18-2003, 09:21 AM
#19
Drifting
Originally posted by m42racer
Raceware, a very clever marketing program. Coat very standard material with coating and sell as high end fasteners.
Raceware, a very clever marketing program. Coat very standard material with coating and sell as high end fasteners.
And you know this based on what? I would like to know how you came up with this info. Independent testing? Failure of a head stud?
I have used their hardware in many engines that I have done and have not had a single failure to date.
Again the curiosity is killing me..............
07-18-2003, 11:39 AM
#20
Racer
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In my opinion the car had been detonating for some time evidenced by the speckled look to #2 & #3 in the carbon coating of the pistons. I don't know who built this motor but it all appears to be fine with no evidence of scoring, ring seal issues etc... There is also evidence that it was leaking in cyl#3 toward the center of the motor and between #2 & #3 by the carbon tracking on the gasket. Taking these to observations together I would say that detonation in #2 and #3 casued the gasket/head to lift and the subsequent failure. I would recommend the new Full Metal Jacket gasket as a replacement which has the propper side water fitting location and is cut to 106.5mm bore size for the big bore motors. The FMJ is available with internal O-Ring or without.
07-18-2003, 04:17 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Fairfax Station, Va
Posts: 1,228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok all, the motor was designed by John Anderson, OR Tim Richards(SFR). I was dealing with only John when this project started, but just after I shipped my block to him he left SFR to start Anderson Motors. I belive that the machining was done by some place they sent the block out to. The block was then sent back to me and I built the motor. The turbo on this car was rebuilt by Garrity, BUT he put a piece in backwards which caused the turbo to blow most of my oil into the intake stream. There is now a different turbo on it. As for the gasket, it is the one I was told to use. I was sent I belive a 968 widefire and a 944 turbo gasket. I was told to cut off the water jacket and use it with the 968 head gasket.
AS OF NOW, I have the three layer metal gasket from GURU. Everything is clean and ready to go back together. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW? I wish I had known all of this before!!!!!!
AS OF NOW, I have the three layer metal gasket from GURU. Everything is clean and ready to go back together. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW? I wish I had known all of this before!!!!!!
07-18-2003, 05:31 PM
#22
To answer Chris first,
I know about the material of the studs, because of testing done on them by a lab which was contracted to do this by a engineering company. Cut one in half and have it tested. They are steel, (somewhat common grade) and coated. If you compare the material used with other material used by other makers of fasteners, you will see the difference. It also needs to be noted, that the design os wrong for the application. If they work for you and many others, then they are up to your requirements. Good to go. \
Eurospeed,
you have purchased the best H/G you can get. well done. I would call travis and ask him to go over everything before you reassemble. Make sure the block is flat and the head surface is flat. use a sraight edge and feeler gauge. Go over the torque sequence and be sure to use plenty of anti friction grease/oil.
Call Travis, he can help you.
I know about the material of the studs, because of testing done on them by a lab which was contracted to do this by a engineering company. Cut one in half and have it tested. They are steel, (somewhat common grade) and coated. If you compare the material used with other material used by other makers of fasteners, you will see the difference. It also needs to be noted, that the design os wrong for the application. If they work for you and many others, then they are up to your requirements. Good to go. \
Eurospeed,
you have purchased the best H/G you can get. well done. I would call travis and ask him to go over everything before you reassemble. Make sure the block is flat and the head surface is flat. use a sraight edge and feeler gauge. Go over the torque sequence and be sure to use plenty of anti friction grease/oil.
Call Travis, he can help you.
