Seattle944

I purchased an AOR out of a 88' turbo S and I'm looking to swap it into my 88' Turbo. It seems strait forward and I plan to follow clarks-garage. Between the time I get the trans and the time I have to drive the car Seattle to San Luis Obispo Ca is 4 days so I don't want any surprises...(yea right). Is there something I should be thinking about besides a simple swap.

I also bought solid trans mounts and I'm 50/50 about putting them in because of vibration problems...any thoughts on that?

Secondly I've done some research with trans fluid and I figure I would go with Redline mt-90. My question is I'm only able to find 75w, is this the only weight or do most people recommend highter? Lower? Car is going to be in average 65 degree temp.

Thanks in advance

Dougs951S

Been running a solid mount on my car for well over a year. Despite how simple/cheap it was, it was one of the better things I've ever done to the car yet. Highly recommended and the extra NVH is negligible.

Reimu

I made a mold and did the semi solid mount that was posted on here a few times. Worked great and way less flexible than the stock mount, which was really a glorified pencil eraser.

I noticed no extra noise or vibration outside of a tiny little shake occasionally at idle

hp18racer

When you put the trans in, attach the coupler to the torque tube side first, the line it up with the notch for the trans side.

If you don't do a good job of lining the coupler bolts up with the v-grooves in the torque tube or the trans you can easily eat all the threads off the coupler bolts.

Pay attention to the dowel pins b/t the torque tube and trans body. They might stick in either the trans or the torque tube.

jmj951

I run the Lindsey Ultimate trans mount, and even with that little bit of rubber the extra noise is very significant for daily driving. I would never put a solid mount on my trans with the experience I've had with the ultra mount. My transaxle has over 150k miles on it now, and maybe my trans bearings are making more noise than normal and should be replaced (I don't know, I would need to compare it to another), but I didn't notice anything like that before the trans mount installation. I do, however, feel far more comfortable that I won't break CV's on the track. I can definitely notice that it's not swinging anymore (e.g. when diving into hard turns).

If I had to do it over again, I would modify the stock mount with an epoxy resin instead.

KevinGross

hp18racer's advice is spot on. I would add a recommendation that before trying to slide the coupler over the two shafts, have the four bell housing bolts installed, almost snug, but a little loose letting you wiggle things just a little bit. Anti-seize on the shafts and on all the fasteners, it is your best friend on any external fastener lower than your knee.

The solid mounts are great for generating noise in the cabin, which can be enhanced by removing carpeting, etc. Not sure if they have other benefits.

Kevin
Catellus Engineering

Seattle944

Well since they the trans mount is easy to replace ill prob. Put it in for the drive down to cali and see how loud it is.

Thanks for the tips on the dowel pins.. not quite sure where they are located but i have yet to take a look under the car to check them out.

So everyone is good running 75w mt90?

Thanks guys

rlets

I swapped an AOR into my '87 non-turbo earlier this year. I did the trick of adding poly to the stock mount and it's working great. I used Redline MT-90 which is 75w90 GL-4 which is also working great. My problem has been the CVs loosening. Here are some tips on that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/1922501-post12.html

Good luck,
Rich

Seattle944

So have people seen the cv loosening with the solid mounts? Would the solid mount help stop the loosening of the cv's? or could they be like any other car and just go at any time?

Dougs951S

I went to an 80A poly fill mount specifically to cure the issue with CV bolts backing out, causing me to shear them off and break CV cages. I broke 2 CV's and countless bolts before filling my stock mount, several thousand hard miles including track time later and I've never broken one since, and the bolts ( which I check often ) are as tight as when I put them in. Shifting feels WAY more crisp too with the stock shifter and tranny linkage.

arthropraxis

As above the 80A poly fill mount while the crossmember is out. I recommend getting a trans jack from Harbor Freight, it makes it a one man job.

hp18racer

On my racers I drilled all the CV bolts and safety wired them.

Seattle944

Thanks for the input. I have a trans jack and a buddy helping so im hopeful we can get it done in two or three days. Thanks again.

mtnman82

+1 on the urethane fill mod for the mount. I've had it for a couple years now and no more noise than the original and the transaxle is in there a lot more securely now - amazing how loose it is with the stock mount.

Seattle944

So I flew up to seattle..picked up the trans and took mine out all in a day. Feeling good. I think I'm going to go with the solid mount for the ride back down to cali to feel it out and see if i'm getting any vibrations. I read it's 2 liters to fill the trans...is this correct?

I would do the urethane fill mod but I think it's to late to track down the urethane and let it set. I leave on friday morning so we'll see what happens.

Thanks again guys.